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This amazing route takes a line up the awe-inspiring right-hand side of the vast South Face of the Peñón. After a very hard first pitch, it relents and then builds again to a superb climax on the wild headwall. Take a small rack for the three easier pitches, which shouldn't be underestimated, and prusik loops in case you manage to loose contact from pitches 8 or 9. The easier middle pitches are loose.
1) 7b, 35m. The line of black bolts is harder than it looks. The crux in the middle leads to a hands-off rest. Take a good breather here since the upper section is tough. A final hard move gains the belay - phew!
2) 7a, 35m. Climb straight up the wide crack behind the stance and follow the line over two awkward bulges above. The line of bolts out to the left of the stance is an enjoyable alternative 6c pitch which gets a bit lost higher up by a thin slab.
3) 6b+, 50m. A huge long pitch, take lots of quick-draws.
4) 6c+, 40m. The short hard wall, then easy ground to a belay on a big ledge below a hanging seat - a good spot for lunch.
5) 5, 20m. Step right around the corner past a peg. Follow the loose groove and step right onto a belay above a pillar.
6) 5+, 30m. Teeter left (peg and bolt). Continue into a bay then left to a thread. Squirm back up (bolt) right to a ledge.
7) 5+, 35m. Meander up to a rib towards a solitary bolt and belly-flop onto the next ledge. Walk right and pick your jaw up off the ground after you have seen where the next pitch goes.
8) 6c, 25m. Enjoy the position as you tip-toe up the groove, then launch up the big holds to grab the blobs, praying that they don't break off. From the security of the belay, take a deep breath and have a look down.
9) 6c, 40m. Follow the hanging groove to a thin pull onto the wall above. Continue past a couple of ledges to a good stance.
10) -, 40m. Scramble up right past two grooves then double back left to reach the top.,
What a route! A mixture of strenuous, adventurous and exposed climbing.
Unfortunately, the gear is becoming very rusty and the route desperately needs a rebolting otherwise it might become dangerous!
The first pitch is the hardest one but not the most interesting, unless you enjoy climbing with cold muscles on crumbly rock! However, things get a lot better after that! The second pitch is truly brilliant climbing with tufa-pulling, delicate slab climbing and a firm pull through a roof. The 3rd pitch is another brilliant pitch which just goes on and on. After that a short overhanging wall on rounded holds will ensure that you will enjoy the break at the terrace above. Watch out for the snake!
The next 3 pitches are, though technically easy, not to be under-estimated. The rock becomes looser and looser and hard to protect (we counted about 2 rusty bolts on each of those pitches), climaxing into the last moves of the 6th pitch which force you to make a 5+/6a move on the shittiest rock! Fortunately, rock quality improves after that up till the 7th stance.
The final climax is when you climb the hanging groove to the airiest belay you will encounter in a long time! After enjoying this the route cruises through the last overhanging part into more grey and technical terrain. The route exits a bit to the right, I wonder why they didn't create a straight up line to the summit at around 6a/b?
Make sure you comfortably lead 7a if you step into this route, and take some additional gear to protect the loose pitches 5-7.
Count 5-6 hours and take plenty of water.
madgup - 29/Nov/04
This may be the best route I've ever done. A real adventure from start to finish.
Dan Arkle - 20/Jan/06
Triple Directa next for you Dan, if you enjoyed the New Dimensions adventure. Not many bolts tho'!
Neil Foster - 20/Jan/06
grandiosa via, un poco descompuesta en algunos largos intermedios, con un final apoteosico. genial, la he hecho 5 veces
cantamañanas - 21/Apr/06
If you liked Nueva dimension, now you can try the new "sin permiso" and "lunes al sol". Both very very nice and continuous with 6c and a little more. Chapeau!!
guillem de gandia - 20/Jun/07
Outstanding route, once you've got past the "choss pile" that is the crux 7b first pitch. Beyond that the rock is excellent until you enter the "Gogarth Zone" of pitches 5, 6 & 7. Think Mousetrap E2 5a rather than V+ and you'll have the right approach. Pitch 8 is totally awesome to one of the most exposed stances you're ever likely to encounter (see my picture on UKC)
Dominic Oughton - 06/Mar/13
After the first pitch, you go up a bit for the second pitch and then when you have reached a big incut (cave) you move a quite lot to the right. The bolts you see to the left are the alternative, but don´t get it wrong: move-traverse right and after a few meters you´ll see more bolts going up. And that´s your line then. This is not obvious and definitely not obvious from the Rockfax route description.
Marijne Lekkerkerker - 29/Mar/13
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