Hawk's Nest Crack

3 Stars
 VS 4c

Adjacent Routes
<< Epiphany < Holly Groove  |  Horizontal Pleasure > Cave Crack Indirect >>

A classic jamming crack that is a bit of a battle with a useful chockstone en-route where knees are usual. From the ledge finish over the exposed jutting flake on the left for an airy thrill.
FA. Joe Brown 1948


jam-tastic! Battle is definitely the word. The old guide said this would make a good first VS lead!!
Brian - 28/Feb/02

don't let a VS-virgin near this one! might have to re-grade it if my #7 nut at 10ft remains in permanently....
Alex - 16/Apr/02

Absolutely classic Baron.Just stuff yer mitts in and crank.Top flake is utterly brilliant but I have to agree with the above comments-not one to push your grade on!
big al - 30/Jun/02

Awesome struggle. Bombing gear all the way up, and stepping out around that flake at the top is one hell of an exposure experience. I didn't even bleed!
RobS - 13/Oct/02

had my first fall on this baby. came back to it a year later and still thought it a bit strenuous...first vs? my arse!
Toby Jackson - 28/May/03

mm i fell off it just below the crux (which i thought was getting to the chock?) but then led it ground-up second go. Top section is nice climbing but pretty easy. Hard for 4c lower down.
Si - 25/Aug/04

in the graded list this is below Inverted V. ??!!
Helix - 05/Oct/04

Inverted V is much more delicate, Hawk's nest is jam-orama and requires "forgotten" skills.
Jon Greengrass - 10/Oct/04

Ab Fab! Tougher than Fern Crack! Jamtastic.
Thurg - 02/Jun/06

I wouldn't recommend this as first vs lead,probabily spit most first timers out at the bottom.. Seconded with d.r. and strained groin due to my battle on todys. enjoyable to climb,gets easier after the chock stone..
jol - 09/Jun/06

Did this two days ago, my second ever VS lead. Found it to be very strenuous, but not all that technically hard. Mind you, I didn't know about the exposed flake finished so missed out there, which is a bit gutting as it looks awesome.
Byron Buck - 02/Apr/07

Fantastic climb, shame someone missed the flake it finished it perfectly. If you don't like jamming (like me) it can be done fairly easily by a combination of undercutting the chockstone (the move may have a more technical name) and laybacking.
David Berry - 16/Jul/07

I did this route as my first VS lead, in slimey conditions too. The start was brilliant, I would say technical/delicate - not strenuous. The rest was a breeze I thought. I don't think I jammed once - laybacked the whole way up. Where exactly did the knees become necessary? Missed out on the exposed flake at the top though (I think?). If this was a hard VS, great!!!
Kevin Kilroy - 15/Oct/07

Don't believe the hype. This route is lovely, but it is a piece of piss.
Tom Last - 02/Mar/09

This is very nice but it isnt a pushover, if your jamming is ok its VS4c. The top flake shouldnt be missed, but is over all too quickly.
shaun walby - 19/Apr/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 168
    hard HVS 0 of 57
    HVS 0 of 57
    easy HVS 5 of 57
    hard VS 27 of 57
    VS 23 of 57
    easy VS 2 of 57
    hard HS 0 of 57
    HS 0 of 57
    easy HS 0 of 57
    hard 5a 0 of 57
    5a 0 of 57
    easy 5a 0 of 57
    hard 4c 0 of 57
    4c 0 of 57
    easy 4c 0 of 57
    hard 4b 0 of 57
    4b 0 of 57
    easy 4b 0 of 57
    hard 4a 0 of 57
    4a 0 of 57
    easy 4a 0 of 57
    hard 3c 0 of 57
    3c 0 of 57
    easy 3c 0 of 57
    hard 3b 0 of 57
    3b 0 of 57
    easy 3b 0 of 57
    hard 3a 0 of 57
    3a 0 of 57
    easy 3a 0 of 57
    hard 2c 0 of 57
    2c 0 of 57
    easy 2c 0 of 57
    hard 2b 0 of 57
    2b 0 of 57
    easy 2b 0 of 57
    hard 2a 0 of 57
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    easy 2a 0 of 57
    hard ?? 0 of 57
    ?? 0 of 57
    easy ?? 7 of 57
    hard ?? 27 of 57
    ?? 22 of 57
    easy ?? 1 of 57
    3 Stars 38 of 54
    2 Stars 14 of 54
    1 Star 2 of 54
    0 Stars 0 of 54
    Bag of ..... 0 of 54

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