2 Stars
 E2 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Beau Brummel < Swimmer's Chimney  |  Greedy Pig > Avalanche >>

Low in the grade. From halfway up Swimmer's Chimney squirm rightwards past the arete and climb the wall by a hard move, things then ease. A bouldery direct start up right side of the lower arete is Better Dead Than Smeg, E6 6c.
FA. Phil Burke 1980. FA. (BDTS) Stephen Fearn 1994


Bit of traditional back and footing to get you started,strange bouldery moves around onto the face, then lovely long moves up the face - classic and varied - very well protected - more like E1 5c
mark s davies - 14/Mar/03

Getting on to the face is by far the hardest part. From the large jammed block in the chimney, you can arrange good gear in the arete, which is above the crux moves onto the face (and makes it E1 perhaps?)
Nick Smith - 07/May/03

Didn't it always used to be E1?
Matt - 18/May/05

Getting onto the face definitely didn't feel like the crux to me. It was the few moves after that with a semi-mantleshelf that provided the entertainment. Get good gear in quick and then be ready for a long reach. A romp from there on. A really enjoyable climb and worth 3 stars I reckon for its variety.
Paul Willison - 23/Jul/06

Absolute classic! Worth 3 stars for sure. E2 5c fair i reckon.
Joe - 12/Aug/06

A brilliant climb. Very well protected and with a nice mantelshelf after attaining the face.
Sam Doyle - 21/Aug/06

E1 5c I thought. Tough moves, but as the man says, the gear is above your head. Under rated at 1*.
Owen WG - 08/Oct/07

Where EXACTLY does the line go i.e. at which point does one move around the arete. some seem to do this with the break and gear at foot level, whilts others move round with the break and gear a little above hand level. People who do the former all seem to say very soft for the grade. People who do the latter think pretty solid at E2 5c (although well-protected). Which was the original line?
Dave Johnson - 29/Oct/09

In response to Dave, you HAND traverse the break with gear by your nose.
Owen Wynne-Griffith - 30/Oct/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 108
    hard E3 0 of 37
    E3 0 of 37
    easy E3 0 of 37
    hard E2 5 of 37
    E2 17 of 37
    easy E2 12 of 37
    hard E1 3 of 37
    E1 0 of 37
    easy E1 0 of 37
    hard 6a 0 of 37
    6a 0 of 37
    easy 6a 1 of 37
    hard 5c 5 of 37
    5c 28 of 37
    easy 5c 3 of 37
    hard 5b 0 of 37
    5b 0 of 37
    easy 5b 0 of 37
    3 Stars 3 of 34
    2 Stars 28 of 34
    1 Star 2 of 34
    0 Stars 0 of 34
    Bag of ..... 1 of 34

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