2 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< None < La Flecher  |  Dancing on Crystals > Diedro Edwards-P&eacute;rez >>

E5. Maori for 'cloud piercer'. Take a full rack.
1) 5+, 20m. Climb the slab to the pinnacle.
2) 5+, 25m. Up the pinnacle then the groove and crack above.
3) 6c+, 45m. The groove (bolts) then on past a flake to a ledge, cross the slabs to the wall behind.
4) 5, 20m. Climb the wall past a sloping ledge. Up left to belay.
5) 6a, 30m. Climb left over a small roof. Cracks and corners lead to a large ledge.
6) 3, 25m. Scramble across broken rock to below a long crack.
7) 5, 20m. A broken wall leads to a ledge.
8) 6b, 45m. Follow the crack then the wall on the left. Move back to the crack and up to a cave.
9) 6a+, 45m. Exit the cave up a chimney; cracks lead to the top.
FA. R.Edwards, S.Pérez 1994


crux pitch is good and hard (more like 7a but not e5 as it's bolted until it eases) but the rest of this roite is a bit pants really. so much so that we bailed from the big ledge as we were fed up with the poor rock and the remainder looked even worse.
ianb - 15/Apr/12

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