Vía Julia

2 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< Nueva Edici&oacute;n < Edge of Time  |  Sin Salida > Diedro Gallego >>

E1. A classic with some great climbing. Take a full rack and large gear for pitches 3 and 5. Start at the foot of the pillar where the name is painted on the rock.
1) 4, 35m. Climb shallow grooves and cracks to a ledge (can be reached by walking around to the right).
2) 6a, 45m. Climb the steep wall and cracks above to a ledge. Continue up more cracks to the top of a pillar. The pitch can be split at a spectacular stance on the half-way flake.
3) 5, 45m. Move left, climb a groove and slab to an overhang (peg). Pull over into a groove (possible belay) then move left to a steep, wide crack. Climb this to a belay.
4) 5, 25m. Follow the corner crack to join Espolón Central.
FA. Chema Rameirez, Manolo Pomares 1982


This is mostly trad (E1?) and quite strenuous (pumpy symbol). The large friend is needed for pitch 5 which is a sustained layback (5+?). An impressive line.
Nick Eaton - 29/Mar/04

Lovely line, with pitch2 and 5 standing out. We split pitch 2 at a spectacular flake stance. Pitch 5 needs more than one large friend: a long run out on ever widening layback crack. Old fashioned big hexes would be good!
Derek Morton - 19/Oct/04

Really good route. Didn't think there was much difference in grade between pitch 2 and pitches 3 & 5. Think pitches 3 & 5 would be F5+. Camalot 3 was definitely worth having for pitch 5.
Heike - 08/Jan/07

Very enjoyable route. If you haven´t done Espolon Central before it is worth carrying your trainers and carry on up EC to the top.
Shaw Brown - 24/Jan/08

Done with Espolon Central, very good crack climbing on steep terrain for the grade! Used Camalot #4 too.
elvio - 11/Jan/11

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.