C.M.C. Slab

1 Stars
 HVS 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Germination < Nightshade  |  Heather Wall > Grip >>

Keep as near as possible to the centre of the slab left of Heather Wall, with the odd runner in that route. It is a grade or two harder without these.
FA. Castle Mountaineering Club members 1970s


On the moves, this is one of my favourite slab routes - though obviously quite artificial. Can be rendered fairly safe with side-runners in Heather Wall. Good training for Three Pebble Slab....
Jon Croxford - 18/Dec/01

NB: This is HVS WITH side runners in the corner crack. At least E1 without.
Graham - 04/Feb/02

If you go direct up the slab which is the obvious line for a route independent of heather wall. It is much harder than 3PS with technical moves well above the gear.
PS remember the micro wires or micro friends if you don\'t want a big fall from the hard moves near the top.
jon - 15/Apr/02

excelent slab climbing, rendered safe by regular steps sideways to place protection in the nearby crack.
Alex - 03/Apr/03

Good, tricky slab climbing. I wouldn't do it without the side runners although this makes it quite artificial.
Laurence - 01/Jun/03

i tried this on a solo, got to the 5a move (which is well high) and thought "no way". i don't see how this can be hvs. with no siderunners its an e grade and with side runners its too easy...
leon skeldon - 29/Sep/03

Grading, grading eh? Hmmm a pleasant HVS / E1 solo. If you use side runners can you claim climbing two routes at the same time? Greedy!
Birkby - 16/Oct/03

A rather nice piece of slab climbing. Technically much harder than 3PS, though with the side runners, more reliably protected. Hats off to anyone who solos it though...
D Berry - 12/Apr/04

Brilliant climbing on the slab, the holds are nearly invisable but the friction is top. Protection is bomber, but contrived and out of character with most climbing routes being as side runners in another route. The route is also far too escapeable to feel like proper HVS climbing. I also climbed the bottom section to the left of heather wall, but was unsure if the route was supposed to start there or up the initial heather wall crack.
Woker - 13/Apr/04

A lot harder than I remember, so I reckon I must have done it with side runners last time. The guide ought to say whether the grade reflects the use of side runners.
Chris the Tall - 25/May/04

In reply to Chris the Tall:

"Follow the slab just left of Heather Wall arranging protection in that route"

From the '91 BMC Froggatt guide. I agree with runners in Heather Wall its soft for HVS, but without surely it would be worth at least 1 E-point.
D Berry - 25/Jul/04

Even with side runners it's still abit of a fall off the crux as you have to move well away from th crack. I should know cos i fell off.
Swirly - 01/Nov/04

This is like sundowner so would be E2 5a without siderunners.
The Pylon King - 02/Nov/04

I backed off it twice thinking that side runners would be cheating. Agree that without them it should be E1/E2. Sounds like the Rockfax guide made an error in not saying to use gear in heather wall.
Leeds Ben - 29/Aug/05

For all who think the gear in Heather Wall spoils the route, a pink tricam fits very nicely in the obvious pocket that is easily reached just before the start of the crux sequence. May be a good E1 without the side runners using this...
D Berry - 30/Oct/05

yeah, without SRs this one is effectively a solo (unless you got tricam); did it this weekend and thought it quite bold at the grade.
lleyton - 20/Feb/06

glad to hear you wer allowed side runners.
i used one just below the crux. all the gear is worthless if you fall.

thinking this route was hvs whilst climbing made me very scared.. so its a relief to know its koads harder like it felt.. top route though
martin cleaver - 04/Sep/06

Led without siderunners, nut in creaky flake down to left and then you can get a yellow alien in the pocket below the crux which renders it safe. Felt siderunners would be missing the point really.
E1 without probably and a hard 5a move. with side runners dependng how laced heather crack is, VS-HVS
Matthew Kilner - 28/Sep/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 108
    hard E1 0 of 36
    E1 0 of 36
    easy E1 5 of 36
    hard HVS 4 of 36
    HVS 21 of 36
    easy HVS 3 of 36
    hard VS 3 of 36
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    hard 5b 0 of 37
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    hard 3b 0 of 37
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    hard ?? 0 of 37
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    3 Stars 1 of 35
    2 Stars 11 of 35
    1 Star 19 of 35
    0 Stars 4 of 35
    Bag of ..... 0 of 35

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