2 Stars
 E1 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Ratbag < Tody's Wall  |  Silver Crack > Silver Traverse >>

Starting from a ledge up and right or the grotty corner below, climb the pocketed slab right of Tody's crack. Large low cams protect, but not really very adequately.
FA. D.Warriner 1969


Not led this yet (backed off twice) as it scares me. Are you sure you're happy giving this the same grade as Three Pebble Slab (which I've led many times and seconded in trainers).
Steve - 13/Dec/01

Its a grade easier than either of the two on the left of the slab - when you commit its not so bad....
chris j - 13/Dec/01

Bold and scary at the top. As Chris says, you have to commit and go for it and it isn't too bad, unfortunately prospects of downclimbing once you've committed are nil so you will be up it or off it. Not a route to do in shorts, although you couldn't deck you could leave a LOT of skin on the slab. A good bench mark for a bold E1.
Graham - 15/Jul/02

I led this on saturday (14/9/02) and soloed it straight afterwards. The final moves are lovely but you definately wouldn't want to fall off them even with three friends in the break. At least you would n't tumble down the hillside, though it would hurt when you hit the ledge... A good bold E1.
Paul Boardman - 17/Sep/02

This is a fantastic route - lovely moves. The crux is committing but moving to good holds, and a nice necky route.
mozzer - 11/Nov/02

Nice enough. Thought the gear was bomber too. You get in some great cams then a bit further up you get to place two opposing rps. These are superb and protect the final moves really well. You just have to think about it a bit when placing the gear. Link the route with Tody's wall to produce a rather nice 3 star line (I my oppinion).
DH - 10/Apr/03

Nice enough. Thought the gear was bomber too. You get in some great cams then a bit further up you get to place two opposing rps. These are superb and protect the final moves really well. You just have to think about it a bit when placing the gear. Line the route with Tody's wall produce a rather nice nice line (In my oppinion).
DH - 10/Apr/03

Definitely got my heart going near the top. One of my feet popped just as I reached the thin break just below the finnish! Bold and very committing once you leave the gear. I didn't do the opposing RP thing, though I suspect that would still seem a long way away too as you near the end. A very satisfing problem to solve.
D Berry - 11/May/03

Pleasant E1 potter for the solo. HVS I guess on the lead. Lovely!
Birkby - 16/Oct/03

Birkby - 5a moves where you can break your legs. It's not HVS is it...
Besides you can't have an extra grade for soloing it anyway. Theres good gear on the slab. It's like saying Three Pebble is E2 'cos I soloed it.
ChrisC - 16/Oct/03

My mate decked on this one move from the top. The gear held but he was still on crutches for a week. Had a go myself, either it's 5b or (as I suspect) I took the wrong line.
Leon Skeldon - 26/Dec/03

Pleasant moves but over very quickly. RPs give adequate protection. Possibly easier than CMC ?
Chris the Tall - 25/May/04

rather than two equalised RPs I placed a #1 nut in the tiny break and clipped to the same rope as i'd clipped in the friend below - i think this might have kept the nut iin place. didn't really want to test it though.
Tobs - 16/Nov/04

Agree with Steve that this isn't the same grade as 3 Pebble slab, definitely E1. I got a few swedges in on the face but you're a fair way above them at the top, makes the cool series of moves up the face feel even better!
Dave Emms - 27/Jan/05

a brilliant route and my first E1. I would have said its solid E1 but i never found the rp or nut placements so don't know if they would affect things. One of my favourite leads to date.
Leeds Ben - 29/Aug/05

Nice moves on a lovely slab. Guy who did it after me got a zero in the big pocket before the finishing moves. Wouldn't think it merits E1 with gear other than in the big break, though.
Andy Clarke - 23/Oct/05

The friends inthe break are bomber but miles below you at the crux. I placed what appeared to be a bomber swedge 3 at the back of the biggest pocket/mini-ledge about 2m above the cams, but wouldnt have wanted to take a whipper on ot it from the top. Clibmign is easier than CMC but not much, and CMC is safer assumig a side-runner.
Pretty much benchmark E1 5a I'd say, noticeably harder than e.g. 3ps or left edge slab (bother very soft) but easier than one or two others I've done. Above the gear you have to make sure take the right line, although until it becomes obvious the moves are reversible, just be careful.
Si - 29/May/06

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 82
    hard E2 0 of 28
    E2 0 of 28
    easy E2 2 of 28
    hard E1 5 of 28
    E1 18 of 28
    easy E1 3 of 28
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