<< Mamtastic < Diedro Edwards | Eye of the Wind > Class for Today >>
E5. The original climb on this wall follows the striking diagonal crack line, mostly on trad gear, with some bolted belays. There are some variations possible.
1) 6a+, 30m. Get onto the slab (loose), up this and cross onto the wall then traverse the ledge (thread). Continue right to the edge of a pillar and up this to a belay.
2) 6b, 25m. Climb the broken cracks direct. At the top, move left to a sloping ledge and bolt belay.
3) 6a, 30m. Climb the slab on the left to a spike, left to a groove and climb this until it is possible to move left and follow a fault to a bolt belay (same as Eye of the Wind).
4) 6b, 28m. Climb broken cracks on the left then follow the right-hand branch to a stance. The left one is Eye of the Wind).
5) 6c, 32m. Climb left to a steep corner and pull around the arete leftwards into a diagonal crack. Traverse this to a corner then move left and up to a hand traverse left across to a stance.
6) 6c, 50m. Follow the shallow depression to bolts above the roof. Pull over and traverse right into cracks. Follow these to the large ledge and traverse left to a bolt belay.
7) 7a, 50m. Climb the short crack left to a shallow depression (bolt). Ascend leftwards (bolt) to the arete and follow the crack (3 pegs) to ledges which lead to the top.
Pitches 5, 6 and 7 are excellent. The final crack is desperate!
Johnny Woods - 27/Feb/09
Login to your ROCKFAX account
to add your comments - Search for comments