Great Cleft

2 Stars
 E2 5c

Adjacent Routes
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The long crack system is a strenuous, slippery and awkward tussle, yet it is a kind of classic despite all of this.
1) 4c, 16m. Start left of a block and climb a thin crack to a groove then a small stance on the left.
2) 5c, 28m. Step right and do battle with the crack through a bevy of bulges. Sustained and strenuous though with good gear and the occasional solid jam to allow you to catch your breath.
FFA. Graham Hoey 1975. FA. Doug Scott, Steve Read (3pts) 1963


Unless this has got easire in the last 10 years (unlikely)then this is right at the top end of the grade, and not to be taken lightly! make sure you get good gear in ini the early part of the crux sequence, and then go for it - putting it in later is very strenuous indeed.
David Jones - 09/Jun/04

Great gear protects the crux but you'll need to keep going for about 5m before getting enough weight on your feet to put any more in. very good route for finger crack technique
ianb - 01/Jul/13

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