2 Stars
 VS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Mr Dog < Stolen Jewel  |  Climacteric > Cataclysm >>

1) 4b, 22m. Start up Lynx but where it starts to trend left move out right and climb a groove and rib to a stance and tree belay.
2) 5a, 18m. Climb the groove on the left then step left (ancient ring-peg and not much else) and make a short traverse and tricky mantelshelf to enter a wide crack. Finish more easily up this.
FA. Steve Read, Will Mcloughlin 1963


On a damp Nov day, the second pitch felt hard for 4c. I attempted to continue up the crack but retreated and faced the slippery mantelshelf like a man. Almost chickened out again but eventually committed and hauled up. Tough in the damp.
DrGav - 08/Nov/04

May have been off line, but the "move out right and climb a groove" description should really mention the rose bushes you have to plow through...

Top pitch very scary, arguably worth HVS, especially in the dark...
Steven McDonald - 19/Jul/06

Completely overgrown in june 2013
ianb - 01/Jul/13

Climbed today in good conditions. Lower pitch somewhat overgrown unfortunately. Top pitch fantastic climbing but way under-graded. If Climacteric is also VS5a and Cataclysm is HVS 5a then Sphinx is easily HVS 5a as it felt more committing than both the previously named routes. Cataclysm feels like easy and safe HVS whereas this has some technical moves with only some RP's and an old rusty peg to protect, which are a good metre or so away. Suggest a regrade to HVS 5a asap!!
Matt Pigden - 03/Aug/14

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