2 Stars
 VS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Stolen Jewel < Sphynx  |  Cataclysm > Metamorphosis >>

Enjoyable and full-on for the grade. Climb the centre of the wall to the overlap, and make a difficult pull on to the wall above. Continue up the steep pockety wall above to a bulge at the top.
FA. Paul Nunn, D.Goodwin 1968


at the overlap DON'T go up the groove on the left through the rose bush.
PaulW - 17/Oct/05

Currently rather dirty and not worth more than one star. It's also not VS. Maybe it was in 1987 (when the Peak Limestone South guidebook came out) but if it was then it's certainly changed and it must have changed since being checked for the latest guidebook as it's now more like E1 5b! The description and diagram in the rockfax guide are not very helpful, the old guide was better -"(the overlap) is surmounted boldly just right of the groove".
roger whetton - 26/Jun/12

I think RW is wrong about the grade in both respects (although not about the foot of the route being on the grubby side). I think it's bang-on VS 5a. The holds are really positive (and often substantial); there are plenty of opportunities to place gear and, because the wall is off vertical (like much of the crag), then you can keep your weight on your feet. We did this today having been first to Rheinstor, where we backed-off Loki (in my Rockfax guide at VS, 4c!)
Nigel E
Nigel Edley - 22/May/13

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.