Cataclysm Top 50

3 Stars
 HVS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Sphynx < Climacteric  |  Metamorphosis > Timing X >>

A shiny classic up a neat hanging groove above a hidden cave.
1) 4b, 10m. Climb a groove to reach a tree, step right then continue to another of those strange stances in a cave.
2) 5a, 28m. Enter the groove and balance up it to a roof, then swing right to follow very polished cracks in a fine position.
FA. Doug Scott, Steve Read (1pt) 1963


A hugh block came off the second pitch in late 2003, luck the belayer was in the cave! It might be a little harder now?
Stuart Tyrrell TERRACOTTAGES (ag - 29/Apr/04

Definitely HVS!!
Bob Bennett - 29/Apr/04

Don't know why this is HVS. The only 5a move is near the top off a good resting ledge with gear above you. A superb VS, though.
GrahamD - 02/Nov/04

A super route at the top end of the grade although I have not done the route since the rockfall.
Marcus Tierney - 02/Mar/05

We climbed this last night and had a great time. Be careful though - we decided to ab back down and chose a tree which looked fine from the outside but was actually totally rotten on the inside which caused a near miss.
Blake - 03/Jun/05

solid HVS, hard bridging up the groove and then tricky pull over near the top, both worth 5A. Good gear though.
PaulW - 17/Oct/05

According to some local experts I talked to before doing this it has lost some good holds about halfway up the groove. This felt like the crux. Maybe 5b.
Swig - 12/Aug/07

Brilliant route, top pictch is great climbing up the groove with the a couple of hard moves then another hard move pulling over the top. Certainly graded right at HVS 5a, felt a lot more serious than golden yardstick.
Rob Cole - 31/May/09

This is a great line. I did it in one pitch. The crux is not where I expected it to be at all!

I have to say that I found this pretty hard for 5a. The move at the and the moves in the groove felt really hard. Maybe it's a height thing or maybe I'm not used to peak limestone. I would say it was HVS 5b.
DaveF - 29/Jun/09

A great route with plenty of protection - the crux move is right at the top - the lower crack after the cave isn't too bad - i'd give it h(ard)vs (hard) 5a
mark pollak - 20/Aug/09

Certainly changed in the last 30 years! The crux is now in the lower groove and is much harder than anything on eg Nine Lives Wall. I'd give in 5b.
roger whetton - 26/Jun/12

Definitely easy HVS hard 5a/5b. Great route ***+ Well protected throughout with a tricky move at the end. Fabulous position. Safe.
Matt Pigden - 03/Aug/14

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