Catastrophe Grooves

2 Stars
 HVS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Lunatic Asylum < The Mentalist  |  White Room > Lyon Route >>

A Wildcat classic taking the disjointed groove system. Harder than it used to be because of the polish.
1) 4c, 18m. Climb the crack and groove above to a stance.
2) 5a, 20m. Make balancy moves right into the upper groove. Climb this with moves right at mid-height to finish direct.
FA. Doug Scott, Steve Read (3pts) 1960s


led this route twice over a 10 year period.
route is much harder now due to polish and the protection is hard to get in. the peg is crucial.

Before you get this far Catacomb Direct is a worthwhile HVS 5a.
roger whetton - 05/Jun/04

A fine route that requires a steady lead as the protection is a bit fiddly. Really good climbing though.
chip stick - 08/Oct/04

I think this route is really good. Much better than cataclysm and no harder than that route. Maybe feels a touch more exposed.
craig d - 09/Apr/07

Not really sure where this comment should go but this will have to do.
It is a real pity that some good routes have been omitted from the new guide. To the left of Catastrophe Grooves there are several worthwhile routes around the Buckinghamshire Pothole. Routes such as Catcall (VS 4c) and Caterpillar's Crawl (HVS 5a) look in reasonable condition and I can vouch for Catacomb Direct (HVS 5a) which is a good one star route. At the other end of the crag there are Timing X (E1 5b) and Endgame (HVS 5a) (which do appear in the database if not in the guide) to say nothing of the previously heavily starred Upper Tor.
roger whetton - 03/Jul/12

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