White Room

1 Stars
 HVS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< The Mentalist < Catastrophe Grooves  |  Lyon Route > Coyote Buttress >>

A right-hand version of Catastrophe Grooves sees a lot less traffic.
1) 4b, 20m. Climb a wide crack then the wall past bushes.
2) 5a, 18m. Continue up the wide flake-crack to its end then head up the short wall to finish as for Catastrophe Grooves.
FA. Gary Gibson, Chris Johnson 1979


Tried this route again following your description-previously climbed it starting 2m right of Catastrophe grooves-it seemed to fit the existing description in the old guide but did not think it worth including in the new-however,following the new description led us up a short crack starting from same place as Cat. grooves then inmmediately back into the main groove of Cat. groove.(it did not seem feasible to go right at the top of the short crack)-We remain a little confused!
Bob Bennett - 24/Sep/04

the upper pitch is worthwhile if you have done Catastrophe Grooves a few times perhaps a little bold for HVS. The description seems fine to me
Michael Simpson - 10/Nov/06

The first pitch can be climbed more or less following the line shown in the new guide (which does not seem to be the same as for the old 1987 guide) but this is dirty and rather loose. Much better would be to start up pitch one of Lyon Route or Coyote Buttress and then move left (starting up Coyote Buttress would give a two star route).
Pitch two is excellent and well worth doing.
roger whetton - 08/Aug/12

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.