Coyote Buttress Top 50

2 Stars
 HVS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< White Room < Lyon Route  |  Derek's Dilemma > Broken Toe Groove >>

Excellent and varied. Start at a groove left of a short pinnacle, or slightly higher on a ledge to do the route in 1 pitch.
1) 5a, 12m. Climb the left wall of the groove to a small stance. 2) 5a, 26m. Up the short groove on the right then turn the small roof on its right. Move up and climb the left edge of the buttress and the steep crack above to its top. Escape off right.
FA. Doug Scott, Ray Gillies, Terry Bolger 1968


by starting higher on grass ledge you can do this climb in 1 pitch.
the climb is straightforward however after passing the small roof on the right get a good runner in to the right as there is no protection for a long way, although i got a small micro wire around the arete near lyon route.this section has big holds but they are flat and a bit polished.

Good climbing throughout, quite soft for the grade, but maybe needs a fluttery heart symbol.
The first pitch is really only 4c, whilst the 5a moves on the second are well protected. But as the angle eases, the gear disappears.
Chris the Tall - 18/May/04

As above, the second pitch runs out of gear placements as it gets steep. Still, there are good, although slightly polished holds and a convenient piton for backup. A good fun climb - what I'd expect from HVS 5a.
David Martin - 21/Jul/05

Agree about the fluttery heart symbol - balancy moves on polished footholds a little way from gear.
Swig - 19/Jun/06

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