Derek's Dilemma

1 Stars
 VS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Lyon Route < Coyote Buttress  |  Broken Toe Groove > Jackdaw Grooves >>

1) 4b, 16m. Climb a groove right of the short blunt pinnacle, moving right to a stance on a detached ledge.
2) 5a, 22m. Climb the black and slippery groove, which has a real lack of good footholds when you need them most.
FA. Steve Read, Steve Hunt 1963


I found this climb well hard at is learer the upper end of VS4C
paddler - 22/Apr/05

i have done it once and am not doing it agen
Sam and will - 22/Apr/05

Seconded this route earlier this year, as my 2nd or 3rd VS Second. Have no intention whatsoever of ever going back and trying to lead it.
Dominion - 06/Jun/05

Awesome route but definataly 5a. VS is right but the exposure is wild when you are moving into the bridging groove, feels like HVS but with too much good gear for it to be so.
fenclimb - 14/Sep/05

I'm sure this was down as a VS 5a in my climb guide. Protection is good but really tough moves through the crux with poor footholds.
Needs to be listed as as VS 5a to avoid a sanbag incident.
Albie Niedojadlo - 01/Aug/06

My second route at Wildcat, and I reckon the top is certainly 5a, but loads of gear.
brian mead - 23/Sep/07

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