Broken Toe Groove

1 Stars
 VS 4c

Adjacent Routes
<< Coyote Buttress < Derek's Dilemma  |  Jackdaw Grooves > Nine Lives Wall >>

1) 4c, 16m. Climb a flaky groove left of the arete and the wide crack then a bulge to reach the ledge and stance on the right.
2) 4b, 22m. Go left and follow the shallow groove round the right edge of the black bulges, then finish up the crack above.
FA. (P1 ) Dez Hadlum, Dennis Gray 1960, (P2 ) Doug Scott, I.Thorlaby 1963


this is one of the classics of the crag, i must do if your in the area!
Sam - 21/Feb/05

A nice two pitch route with an airy feel to the top pitch recommended
Marcus Tierney - 02/Mar/05

Hissing originating from a birds nest on the first pitch of this route so did Jackdaw's start, top pitch is great fun.
Sankey - 16/May/05

Worth 2 stars, even with the occasional band of loose rock. Nicely sustained, and a good natural line. And easier with jams.
PatEase - 21/Nov/05

Great stance but the big flake sounded non too solid!
Paul Johnson - 17/Jun/09

Was expecting the first pitch to be hard (4c in Rockfax, 5a in the BMC guides), but would say more like 4a (VDiff on Yorkshire grit)! Second pitch much harder and better, sustained top-end 4b. 1 star for the first pitch, 3 for the second, so 2 over all.
Simon Caldwell - 24/Aug/09

p1 certainly feels easier than p2
Charles Moreton - 01/Nov/10

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.