Jackdaw Grooves

2 Stars
 VS 4b

Adjacent Routes
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A popular and worthwhile introduction to the crag.
1) 4b, 16m. Start at a long clean groove and climb this until a short traverse left leads to the detached ledge.
2) 4b, 22m. Traverse right below the roof then climb a short wall and long slim groove, right of the deeper one of BTG.
FA. (P1 ) D.Meadows, Tony Watts, (P2 ) Doug Scott, Ray Gillies 1963


Good fun throughout but the second pitch felt more like 4c than 4b. But it was towards the end of a long hot day.
Chris the Tall - 18/May/04

The top pitch is definately harder than the lower one. The bottom pitch is probably 4a and the top a stiff 4b.
GrahamD - 02/Nov/04

I agree that the second pitch was a lot harder than the first, also not as well protected. My partner and I decided top end S 4a for the bottom half, VS 4c for the top. Shame, because I'd chosen the route hoping for two fairly equally matched pitches, wanted to lead a VS! Watch out for loose rock if you lean back near the top of the first pitch - my belayer didn't appreciate the shower!
cider nut - 09/Jul/05

Agree with previous comments that first pitch is really 4a, probably Severe, whereas 2nd pitch is more like 4c. Nice first route of day though and first trip to Wildcat.
brian mead - 23/Sep/07

Some wobbly holds on first pitch but great climbing and second pitch feels very exposed. I think first pitch is soft 4b and second is 4b
mark20 - 11/Jul/09

Agree, first pitch is much easier, second pitch has maybe one move of 4c. I'd grade it HS 4a,4c.
Simon Caldwell - 24/Aug/09

p1 4a & p2 4b? one of the wobbly holds on p1 is now gone as it came away in my hand
Charles Moreton - 01/Nov/10

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