McPlumb Wall

1 Stars
 HVS 4c

Adjacent Routes
<< Cat's Eye < Budweisser Effect  |  Cougar Cleft > Tiger Route 1 >>

An interesting and satisfying route starting just left of the gully leading up into the recess of Cougar Cleft.
1) 4b, 22m. Climb the shallow groove then move left to belay.
2) 4c, 18m. Head up the wall above, passing a small flake, to reach the overhang then follow the traverse line rightwards under this. Finish up broken territory just round the corner.
FA. W.McLoughlin, Steve Read 1963


Loose rock [and thorny bushes] made the first pitch quite strenuous as the gear took time to place well throughout and at the belay. Felt more like swanage. Great second pitch, spoilt a bit by the broken [although solid] finish. Looked like i had topped out in someone's backgarden.
DrGav - 18/Oct/04

I added a direct finish to this in 1992: Get good runners under the final bulge and continue straight through. "McPlumbline Finish" E1/2 5b. Great rock: can't believe it wasn't done years before.
Steve Wright - 05/May/05

A worthwhile climb despite an unwelcoming approach and an unhealthy finish. The hardest moves are as hard as those on the nearby Nine Lives Wall but there aren't as many of them and pitch one is straightforward if rather greasy to start.
roger whetton - 31/Mar/14

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