Tiger Route 1

1 Stars
 VS 4c

Adjacent Routes
<< McPlumb Wall < Cougar Cleft  |  Cat Walk > Sourpuss >>

Two long and interesting pitches up the left edge of the buttress make this route worth doing. Some of the rock needs care. Start at a flaky groove in the centre of the buttress.
1) 4c, 22m. Climb a crack and groove to a ledge. Continue up to an overlap, traverse left (easier if you stay low), then climb the shallow groove (hard to enter - crux) and arete above to a small ledge. There is some dubious rock.
2) 4b, 26m. Climb the totty chimney/crack around left of the arete, then step right and follow the long crack on good holds and in a great position all the way to the top.
FA. Tony Watts, Steve Bowes 1963


Although I seconded the first pitch, and I am a fairly confident VS leader, both I and the leader found the traverse to be very fine balanced and utterly unprotect able, allowing a disastrous pendulum swing back onto the initial grove. Suggest HVS 5a.
Second pitch a delightful 4a/4b excursion
dave - 17/Nov/08

To do the 1st pitch at VS you need to traverse at low level below the reaching the obvious overlap. Traversing at a high level under the overlap and moving into the groove is a grade harder.
Andy Lewandowski - 27/Jul/11

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