Long John's Slab

2 Stars
 E3 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Sorrallion < Congestion Crack  |  Downhill Racer > Slab Recess Direct >>

From a lurking boulder, mantel onto a narrow ledge then use the old peg hole (6a for the short) to gain finger-holds and easier climbing. Soft, but unprotected. Pads help lower the grade. Long John's Left-hand is a different ball-game at E6 6c.
FA. Paul Grey (1 peg as a foothold) 1968. FFA. Al Rouse 1969


I don't think this is that hard for the short, you just have to be a bit more clever. I did it onsight, no problem and I'm short.
Iain Whitehouse - 30/Aug/02

Hmmm. I remember the crux being significantly harder for the short indeed. BTW if you're padding it you're not getting E3 of course.
Fiend - 25/Dec/03

Has anyone managed to get good gear in that initial peg slot? Looks like it might take a large Alien (size up from the yellow one ?)
Nick Smith - 21/Feb/04

What good would the gear do and where would you put your foot???
Birkby - 11/Mar/04

Well, a mate of mine put a tri cam in the pocket. Lobbed off with his feet next to it and didn't deck out. Sadly I think he lobbed off because of the tri-cam blocking his foothold.
ChrisC - 11/Mar/04

Another Froggatt route that attracts an audience, which is enough incentive to avoid fluffing the crux. An easy top section.
Paul Winder - 26/Jul/04

I got a Tricam in it several years ago and it seemed fine. Enough space is left in the pocket to let you put your foot partway in.
Neil - 03/Sep/04

a classic slab route. Bit frightening with the bottom crux though.
dave - 03/May/05

nick smith is right, it takes a red size alien (one up from yellow) and seems pretty bomber. still had room for my foot too. didnt have to test though but looked good. definatly harder for shart. from the ledge i could reach first crimps and my second couldnt and found it quite a bit harder.
jamesturnbull - 09/Nov/05

a red tricam goes in the low slot, it feels good - it doesn't hold though!
petellis - 08/Feb/06

Sweet! Would be even better if the difficulties continued beyond the low crux but I was quite glad that the remainder was a romp. Took me a while to pluck up the courage to move off the ledge as I could only just reach the lowest crimps at full stretch. Smearing my feet while at full strech felt hard!
Andrew Barker - 09/Feb/06

Don't reckon 6a for the short (I'm 5'6, felt like a pretty standard 5c to me).
match - 20/Feb/06

Had a red tricam in the slot- psychological gear only, passed the 'tentative' and even 'good tug' pull test and certainly helped commit to the moves...but the gear failed the 'full-body-sliding-down-slab' test, as a friend found out (sorry pete!).
Al - 21/Apr/06

Forget gear. Another great slab, where you start off thinking "I'll just have a go", get passed the crux, then scare yourself into having to finish it!

Easy 5c, and "narrow" ledge? It's huge!
I would say this is a slightly harder version of the top section of Brown's Eliminate. Very similary style, slightly harder moves, but low down without gear as opposed to high with gear a long way away!
Pythonist - 15/May/06

If you are short, start with your left-hand in the peg slot and climb. The tall start with their right in and just reach - c'est la vie!
Graham Hoey - 25/May/06

Did this a few weeks ago and though it was a really good route. Intense to start but does relax towards the top. I would advise a matt though against the opinions of others as a fall would be a leg breaker!
Tommy G - 08/Jun/06

my friend tested the cam in the slot (alien) and held three falls one from above the crux with no damage. worth while, but a mat also is good, but then never e3
jamesturnbull - 29/Sep/06

E2 really
A Hughes - 12/May/11

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 126
    hard E4 0 of 44
    E4 0 of 44
    easy E4 0 of 44
    hard E3 0 of 44
    E3 15 of 44
    easy E3 21 of 44
    hard E2 8 of 44
    E2 0 of 44
    easy E2 0 of 44
    hard 6a 0 of 43
    6a 0 of 43
    easy 6a 1 of 43
    hard 5c 8 of 43
    5c 23 of 43
    easy 5c 8 of 43
    hard 5b 3 of 43
    5b 0 of 43
    easy 5b 0 of 43
    3 Stars 10 of 39
    2 Stars 25 of 39
    1 Star 4 of 39
    0 Stars 0 of 39
    Bag of ..... 0 of 39

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