1 Stars
 E1 5c

Adjacent Routes
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A once popular route up a good natural line, but it is polished and the old pegs are terrible. Climb the pocketed wall to the overhangs then traverse right to enter the groove. Up this by sustained bridging and jamming until things ease and the vegetation starts to take over.
FA. Steve Read, Steve Hunt (3pts) 1960


Stiff, polished & now quite bold. The peg protecting the crux is gone and the one before is seriously bent after some previous adventure and the one after is also not great but with a good nut next to it. I've done many easier E1 5c's - needs upgrading.
Jon Leighton - 16/Jul/06

Agree with Jon entirely - led this at the weekend and the traverse is quite hairy for both lead and second. You can see your face in those footholds!! The top is a bit loose and vegetated to boot. Altogether overrated.
drcorbasisgod - 25/Sep/06

Never mind sticky rubber, you need ice skates for this one. Nasty! Nasty! Nasty! Don't do it. I couldn't second it, so I went and led God (E1) instead.
richard - 13/Apr/07

Hard for E1 - committing, tricky crux with limited holds followed by more tough climbing - but still pretty good despite the vegetated finish.
Fiend - 04/Aug/08

An atrocity. Where do I start? Unpleasant slippery crux protected by crucial dreadfully rotten pegs...then some holds and gear? No such luck. The rest is continually difficult climbing with poor gear, loose rock and totally overgrown, ending in a disgusting muddy gully. I'd rather eat my own feet than climb that again. How on earth did this get into a modern guidebook as HVS 5b**? An honest mistake, I hope.
Jon Stewart - 05/Jun/10

Soloed this,rather scary, very polished indeed, sort of enjoyable.Top end for its grade.
Eagerandy - 15/Dec/11

Led this last night in the gloom which along with failing eyesight didn't help... didn't have a guide and a guy at the bottom recommended it at HVS - so much of the above hold true - it felt light solid E1 and bold in places due to questionable pegs. Having said that whilst the foot holds are smooth there is a lot of good climbing on the route.
simon cox - 20/Jul/16

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