Allen's Slab

2 Stars
 S 4a

Adjacent Routes
<< Slab Recess < Gamma  |  Polyp Piece > Swing >>

Popular but a bit bolder than you might be expecting. Start up Gamma but follow the diagonal crack out right to the left end of a heathery ledge. Balance right and finish up the juggy wall just left to the next crack (Trapeze Direct).
FA. Nat Allen 1951


I have seen a lot of leaders wobble their way up this one!, its not hard but there ain't much in the way of inspiring gear, if this was your first severe lead you might panick a bit.
mark thrush - 05/Apr/02

It is tricky when you traverse it! .. Great route
Stephen Barker - 24/Jun/02

Ref Mark's comment, it was my first S lead 6 years ago! Led it again yesterday: 3 runners, one in Gamma, one at the end of the sloping crack and one at the end of the traverse just before the final moves to gain the top. (Note: attempts to place other runners seem to result in shredded skin and much blood - it's not hard so just enjoy it! Excellent route!
Helen - 27/Oct/02

pretty scary route this one and i was only seconding! Just be careful placing your feet on the traverse as theres not a lot to stand and little protection until u finish the travers. Friends then protect the finish.
Andrew Townsend - 28/Apr/03

A relly nice route. I think the foot traverse is not too hard, with plenty for feet, there's just no gear till the end of it. A good 'head' climb. Much better, from the seconds point of view, to use half ropes so there is some protection for the traverse.
D Berry - 29/Feb/04

My first Severe lead. Easy start and then a deep breath to go out accross the traverse. Nice route if you like tip-toeing. Nice intro to severe for the more competant.
Andrew M - 30/Apr/04

upper end of severe for that traverse, definitely
Si - 25/Aug/04

Really good route for playing with your head. Traverse not difficult, but feels a little precarious (and maybe a little polished), and somewhat awkward to protect and so feels slightly run out and exposed. Well worth doing.
Liam M - 25/Jul/05

Sweet route this- shame about the antique chipping. Managed to protect the traverse by mashing in a copperhead (only joking).
PatEase - 05/Nov/05

This was my first 'S' lead !! Absolutley brilliant fun. Found it reasonably easy even tho my 2 climbing partners were crying with laughter at something else, thankfully! A bit thin for gear in the middle section but keep goin for the letter box on the rightof the traverse.
wilf1 - 23/Feb/06

HS 4a would better reflect the grade in my opinion a bit run out to be severe with the hard moves well above the gear. Must feel very bold if not comfortable at the grade.
Michael - 19/Feb/07

Great climb, and an excellent intro to the grade (severe). Protection across the traverse is minimal, but I managed to bunch a couple of reasonable wires in a horizontal break. Possibly facing a big swing if you fall, which I nearly did! Balance required.
Allan Stelmach - 30/Sep/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 153
    hard HS 0 of 51
    HS 0 of 51
    easy HS 9 of 51
    hard S 14 of 51
    S 27 of 51
    easy S 1 of 51
    hard HVD 0 of 51
    HVD 0 of 51
    easy HVD 0 of 51
    hard 4b 0 of 50
    4b 0 of 50
    easy 4b 0 of 50
    hard 4a 0 of 50
    4a 0 of 50
    easy 4a 0 of 50
    hard 3c 0 of 50
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    easy 3c 0 of 50
    hard 3b 0 of 50
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    hard 3a 0 of 50
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    hard 2c 0 of 50
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    hard 2b 0 of 50
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    easy 2b 0 of 50
    hard 2a 0 of 50
    2a 0 of 50
    easy 2a 0 of 50
    hard ?? 0 of 50
    ?? 0 of 50
    easy ?? 3 of 50
    hard ?? 8 of 50
    ?? 31 of 50
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    hard ?? 6 of 50
    ?? 0 of 50
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    3 Stars 11 of 52
    2 Stars 33 of 52
    1 Star 6 of 52
    0 Stars 1 of 52
    Bag of ..... 1 of 52

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