Trapeze Direct

1 Stars
 VS 4c

Adjacent Routes
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The easy crack leads to a bulge split by a thin crack. Reach for a jug above, then heave away to easy ground. The route is rather unbalanced, low in the grade and a popular first VS lead.
FA. Wilf White 1948


Surprised no comments on this one as regularky see queues for it. It's a one-move wonder but good fun at that. It's hard or easy at VS depending upon whether you can do the move. Place gear and lay-back through the bulge facing right, committing but it works. A good, safe VS tick however you do it.
Jon Croxford - 18/Mar/02

nice route, safe as houses could easily pass as a HS with just one move thats hard , but right next to great gear.
mark thrush - 08/Apr/02

Since the block came out (x years ago??) its not as cuxy & a better route. Barely VS or 4c. Solid gear at the crux.
chris j - 09/Apr/02

One hard move, protected with as many solid runners as you are prepared to place. A Good move but very soft for the given grade.
D Berry - 27/Apr/03

what a bastard of a move! led it a few times but it doesn't get any easier! the rest is barely v.diff. if there's a queue, go and do terrace crack, its much better.
rich - 27/Apr/03

led in the sunshine as first VS lead. Very disappointed. How on earth is that VS. 1 slightly strenuous move which is bomber protected in a generally severe route??? Found Green gut more sustained, with similar levels of gear and difficulty, and some people think that is severe. Have to find another VS now before i think i've really climbed VS.
ceri stewart - 15/Sep/03

Was expecting something a bit tricky, but have to say was one of the easiest VS ive done. I dont think its a 4c move, maybe i was having a good day but 4a/4b in my humble opinion would be more fitting. Agree with an earlier comment,if you can do that type of move it's easy, if you lack a bit of power and balance it will feel hard and poss spit you out onto excellant gear.
Shaun Walby - 15/Sep/03

Guess this is a bit of a tricky one to grade. It's a hard, powerful move; definitely synonymous with what you'd possibly expect at VS 4c. However, the rest of the route is Vdiff - Severe.
James McN - 25/Sep/03

Apparently a missing chockstone has been 'replaced', reducing the grade to HS 4b. Or so I'm told.
Simon Caldwell - 26/Sep/03

When was that replaced? I led the route back in April.
James McN - 26/Sep/03

the chockstone moves like fuck! if you're soloing might be wiser to avoid it and make a straightforward layback move instead.
Davep - 16/Nov/03

Safe & easy, a soft touch first VS in my view...but then the friend I recommended it to found it really hard. Might it be that unusual beast, a climb that is easier for the short?
Sarah - 14/Jul/04

the "jug" (or chockstone) does indeed move, although doesnt look like its coming out at the moment. Definitely not easer for the short! Im about 5-11 so good height, but if id had another 4 inches it would have been very easy, i couldnt quite reach the good hold without a balacy push on a foot-jam over the bulge. Definitely 4c but perhaps HS?
Si - 25/Aug/04

what's this chocstone evreyone is on about. it felt like a 5a one move wonder but nothing woblled or moved, it was all solid. is the chocstone now a piece of rubble at the bottom of the carg?
ste - 18/Apr/05

My third VS lead. The "move" is awkward. It's not a chockstone but a wobbly flake/fin in the crack above the bulge, which require either a giant's reach of a bit of contorting to get hold of, then it's all over. Think i had three bits of gear to protect the crux. S 4c
severestu - 13/Jun/05

Awesome climb, first VS lead. I'm 6'4" and the move is crap being so tall, have to get your hands alot further up to allow your feet to come up. Ended up toe jamming in the crack. My seconder, 5'8" just moved his feet up easy without any faff. Harder for the tall. And why does everyone always question the grade? They've been set by experts so just leave it at that. Great VS.
WildThing - 15/Nov/05

How was this ever VS back when I first led it seems soft at HS. Be fun when the chockstone flake thing comes out as it does move. Bomber pro 4 the crux. S 4c, 1 star.
Michael - 06/Feb/07

Sorry tech grade easy 4b
Michael - 06/Feb/07

Soloed this early on under the impression that it was Trapeze. I think it's much harder now that there is less of the moving spike, 4c & not a soft touch any more
Iain Thow - 17/Mar/07

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