Green Gut

3 Stars
 HS 4a

Adjacent Routes
<< Armageddon < Brown's Eliminate  |  Pedestal Crack > Slide Show >>

The fine groove is arguably the best line on the crag; it took a couple of days of digging before the first ascent was possible. The route is quite polished and a little awkward towards the top but protection is excellent throughout.
FA. Nat Allen 1948


Why does this get HS 4a? It's well protected throughout, I thought that grade was reserved for runout routes?
Simon Caldwell - 02/Jul/02

Compare this to Heather Wall further down - surely the classic example of a severe. Green gut is significantly more strenuous. The grade here represents that perfectly. Protection doesn't even enter into the equation - it is good on both routes.
Brian - 03/Jul/02

Tried soloing this one and found the top section quite scary... This one felt quite hard to me for a 4a HS. Perhaps I was missing something, but at one point I had to pull up on a side-pull and no decent foot holds to grab a good ledge and that was near the top... scary mary. That'll teach me ;-)
Paul Boardman - 17/Sep/02

Reply to Brian - no, Heather Wall is a classic example of a VDiff that's been mistakenly upgraded to a Severe :-)
Simon Caldwell - 17/Sep/02

its a good HS lead, but try doing it in the wet, i got covered in green shit from inside the crack.. theres is a good bridged rest at half height for anyone who can't do it straight up.
dirk the monkey - 05/Oct/02

yeah it is a good HS lead but I wouldn't give it 3 stars. Maybe I just dont like its claustrophobic nature?
Huw J - 29/Apr/03

A Great climb of easy HS or a high Severe ....doesn't matter really - claustrophobic (for sure!)and steep and 3 dimensional - this route oozes character - has to be ***
Robert A King - 23/Jul/03

Wheres all the green? After this summers drought its more of an orange gut.
Jon Greengrass - 10/Sep/03

A good route up a strong line with some good, and also some not so good, rests in between strenuos climbing. If you cruise this then you're ready for your first HS (this is a hard Severe rather than Hard Severe).
D Berry - 11/Oct/03

The character of the route certainly feels like a HS. Most of the moves are atleast mid range 4a. The hardest moves on the climb are either some of the jamming moves or getting established on the foot ledge near the top of the climb, these are either top end 4a or bottom end 4b either way I think HS 4a describes the nature of the climb pretty well as it's quite sustained for the route difficulty and it's definately harder than Severe and easier than VS.
Woker - 06/Feb/04

I am theonly person to find this one of the most overrated routes on grit. I spent the whole time bunched up and would grade it easy 4a at the hardest. Why it gets HS is also beyond me, sure if you come off the youvaren't going to be able to grab at the rock and stay on but there's fantastic gear the whole way up. April crack at stanage is a far better HS corner climb.
swirly - 16/Apr/04

I agree with Swirly, it's Severe 4a as the gear is so good and there are loads of rests. I also hate it, it is bunched up, awkward and generally vagrant! April crack is miles better
Marrow of wrath - 16/Apr/04

I hadn't been climbing (proper) for 9 years and went out last weekend and lead for the first time since then. I'm 6'6 and the cramped nature of Green Gut didn't bother me it was the sustained effort. I was dead pleased having powered up 2/3 of the route but lost all power for the last couple of moves. I used to lead 5b/c very comfortably but I finished this feeling like I'd been beaten with a baseball bat. I hate grit but I loved that route. Give me limestone cliffs anyday
james - 06/May/04

A good route. I think it deserves hard severe for the rather sustained nature of the climbing. It is certainly an attractive line.
nigel P - 06/Sep/04

Not a nice route, very overrated. Can't believe it is in the top 50 list in rockfax. When it is green it can get pretty tricky
stu - 29/Nov/04

It obviously doesn't take much for nature to reassert itself. I found it green and slimy and was glad to be able to get plenty of pro in. Interesting though.
Alison Stockwell - 18/Jun/05

a great route, not sure if its worth HS (maybe S) but its worth all its stars. great fun!
Neil R - 29/Aug/05

I lead this climb after just two Diff leads. I found it quite easy but I am not saying it is. But on reflection I would give it HS.
Phil Munt - 24/Jan/06

Severe 4a in on peak rock and I agree not HS great line Perfect gear all the way, loved this route, 3 stars.
Michael - 06/Feb/07

what a treat for gear placement all the way up, i never once felt nervous bearing in mind this was my second trad lead, what a perfect selection for anyone learning this fine skill!! USER BEWARE... on both occasions of climbing this route i have been approached by a number of 'old people' (bidddies, and codgers as you may know them), dont be alarmed if this happens to you they are merely a curious breed and mean only to waste some of your time with insessant ramblings!!
Dohnny Jawes - 02/Jul/07

HS 4a reserved for run out routes... what? nice solo tho S/HS whatever...
nate mcmullan - 18/Sep/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 295
    hard VS 0 of 102
    VS 0 of 102
    easy VS 2 of 102
    hard HS 2 of 102
    HS 60 of 102
    easy HS 18 of 102
    hard20 of 102
    0 of 102
    easy0 of 102
    hard 4b 0 of 98
    4b 0 of 98
    easy 4b 8 of 98
    hard 4a 24 of 98
    4a 61 of 98
    easy 4a 5 of 98
    hard 3c 0 of 98
    3c 0 of 98
    easy 3c 0 of 98
    3 Stars 49 of 95
    2 Stars 29 of 95
    1 Star 11 of 95
    0 Stars 0 of 95
    Bag of ..... 6 of 95

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