El Diedro

2 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< None < Momiot llevanti  |  Espero Manolo Jaen > Maraton >>

up a striking line and on solid rock.
1) 4, 30m. The left-hand line of bolts (red hangers) leads up short walls, cracks and grooves to a stance below a crack in the slabby right wall of the main groove.
2) 5+, 30m. Climb the sustained crack (crux) then move left to where easier rock leads up the continuation crack to a stance.
3) 4+, 14m. Trend left and climb the main groove to a stance just below the cliff top.
DESCENT - Abseil back down the line of the climb.

Not in current guidebook.
FA. J.Montesinos, M.Jaen 1963


Did this climb 30th Dec 06. Recommend double ropes which makes this route a perfect 2 pitch route all the way to the top abseil. In the top orange groove above the bush to the right of Espero Manolo Jaen is a new(?) bolt which makes the finish awesome and a full 50m top pitch. Then 2 easy abseils back down. Bring a spare sling for the first abseil.
/Johan Sandberg
Johan Sandberg - 01/Jan/07

This climb is not worth 2 stars. We did it in May 2010 and there was a lot of vegetation, obviously not much traffic here. The first pitch has some nice easy climbing (4/4+) for 30m but nothing spectacular. It has the feel of a trad route and the last bolt is placed terribly about 1.5m to the right of the route. The second pitch is the gem, 30m of 5/5+, but again too much vegetation. Skip the third pitch, its worthless. The anchors at the top are in a ridiculous position. The only thing they are good for is chewing up your rope as it rubs across the edge of the ledge.
Richard - 17/May/10

Route climbed on 9 Feb 2011. The rock is unusually gritty for limestone, with an almost 'Tremadoc like' feel. There is some vegetation, but it did not distract from the quality of the route. Note that this route faces west and as such does not get any sun until afternoon. We climbed completely in the shade only reaching the sun at the top stance. However the route around the corner 'Maraton' is south facing and could be done beforehand.

If walking up from the factory building, now a motorcycle shop, fork right after 5 minutes on a good footpath following the green painted marks past an open mine shaft abutting the dry river bed on your right. Another 10 mins from there, take a cairned path off to your right which heads for the route. Follow cairns across the gully and up to a roped scramble and thence up to the route. Total approach time 40 mins.

The route is now equipped as two pitches, so the topo in the guide is now out off date. P1 (30m) to a good ledge with double-bolt lower off. P2 (35m) to a double ring abseil and a ledge to the right with extra bolt and pegs. There is a P3 (10m) to a double-ring lower off, but it is of no extra value and the abseil is poorly positioned, with loose stones. We used two 50m ropes, which worked fine, with two abs back to the rucksacs. Stewart Muir
Stewart Muir - 11/Feb/11

Climbing is now banned on this sector until 31/12/2013. Reasons unknown.
Julian Mitchell - 13/Jun/11

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.