The Brain

3 Stars
 VS 4c

Adjacent Routes
<< Body Torque < The Vegas Years  |  Mensa > Oblongata >>

Climb the slabby lower wall trending right - bold - to the base of a groove (possible belay). Enter and climb the groove to a choice of finishes, direct is harder, stepping left onto the arete is more exposed - both are excellent.
FA. Slim Sorrell late 1940s


The lower slab is a delicate foot traverse above broken ankles (no pro), then the classic chunky groove and mega-jugs on the oh-so-spectacular arete arrive. One of the best VS routes I've done.
jon stew - 21/Apr/03

Slab traverse is excellent, not at all hard but no gear. The arete at the top makes the route worth every star.
goose - 01/Jun/03

Hard to find, but well worth searching for. It's a ballsy initial traverse if you are just getting in to VS.
Martin - 30/Jun/03

Excellent route if a bit "off piste". Intial slab, quite bold but technically easy. Really the description should encourage the use of the arete as the preferred alternative. The groove is a lesser option and very out of character with the lower part of the route. Do it that way and it is a fine excursion.
Horse - 23/Aug/03

Some of the most joyous climbing in the Peak!? Are there any finer holds in existence than those on the arete? Fabulous!!
Birkby - 30/Oct/03

There is pro on the traverse, two small wires in a double sided flake, I fell off it and the gear held. I had to keep my legs up though and my backside was only inches from the ground!
rob s - 07/May/04

I climbed it in a single pitch taking the fine arete to finish...
Tricky unprotected traverse to start then up and across onto a mighty fine arete in a great positon. Three stars from me when done as above.
Shaun Walby - 24/Apr/05

Need to control the mind ray on the initial slab, there are runners right at the start but the flake is hollow and they won't help you on the crux shuffle round the bulge anyway. The top is superb and about severe
Moomin Lord - 05/Jun/05

Just a word of warning about the hoardes of flying ants that await you at the top - dont do it in shorts and t-shirt!
3* route though with the arete
kristian birchall - 26/Jul/06

One of the Best VSs anywhere, especially if you finish on the arete, much better than cowering inthe groove
Iain Thow - 17/Mar/07

I took the original groove finish and thought it was magnificent, nicely exposed and with the crux move right at the top, just where it ought to be. I'll try the arete next time but can't believe it could be much of an improvement!
Simon Caldwell - 27/Aug/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 90
    hard HVS 0 of 31
    HVS 0 of 31
    easy HVS 1 of 31
    hard VS 8 of 31
    VS 21 of 31
    easy VS 1 of 31
    hard HS 0 of 31
    HS 0 of 31
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    hard ?? 0 of 30
    ?? 26 of 30
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    3 Stars 15 of 29
    2 Stars 14 of 29
    1 Star 0 of 29
    0 Stars 0 of 29
    Bag of ..... 0 of 29

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