Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 7
E3. A magnificent route up the Arete, which has lots of fixed gear of variable quality. A few nuts and threads are helpful to plug the gaps, or back-up the rust!
Not Lucas Nocturnes.The name is Luces Nocturnas(night lights)
the arete pitches into and out of the cave on luces nocturnas variation had reasonable fixed pro for the full length, though the bolts weren't 'new'.
Great route, but both pitches can feel very hard when humid and slippy. The bolts on the arete and the nasty tat don't inspire confidence . Great position though and even the traverse pitch has it's moments!
It isn't clear where to traverse. Down at the water (like the line in the topo) what is unprotected or 5m higher up (like the photo in the guide). The topo and the description should be refined or the phgoto commented. At the moment there are a lot of fixed ropes in the traverse, probably from rescue actions.
Tried to climb with a friend who is a 6C+ climber, he backed off the traverse which seemed to be very hard to protect and quite scary, he tried the low version mentioned above which was wet and greasy, and backed off, otherwise the high version looked do-able from a swim up to an in situ thread. Very serious for a 6a leader, could do with a couple of resin bolts. Glad we didn't make it to the arete!