2 Stars
 E1 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Amy < Rapid  |  Finger Distance > El Vino Collapso >>

The left side of the slab trending right, harder for the short. The final break takes runners. A direct finish is a grade harder.
FA. Colin Mortlock 1964. FA. (Direct finish) Pete Robins 2000ish


This must be about V Diff if you are over 6ft, but its E2 if you are under 5'7"
Al - 30/Sep/02

Long reach may help you reach the hold below the break, but isn't the next move the crux? I don't know as this is where I fell off and will have to wait until the broken bone in my foot has healed !
Not be to underestimated
chris moor - 09/Nov/02

Following the discussion in the forums I had a go at this one, as an onsight solo. I can't believe this is less than E2 if you are of average (or less than) stature. Exciting solo even with the distant cushions!
Horse - 21/Dec/02

Having soloed this three times lately I think it's worth E2 5c if you're below 5'8".
l applat - 28/Feb/03

I led this a while ago and found the crux good 5c. I'm 5'8". My second was 6'2" and reached right past the hard moves but then failed at the top!
Ian - 28/Feb/03

Led as my first E2. At 6ft-ish tall I reached the good hold from tip-toes, rock-over was easy, good gear in top break, then tricky high-step to reach top (5c?). All-in-all, a great first E2!
Jamie Moss - 03/Jul/03

On jamiemoss's suggestion (above) i led this as my 1st E2 ( bare in mind i have only ever done 3 E1's) this climb is about HVS.. i'm 6ft tall but the break takes as many cams as you can carry and the top move is a boulder problem (peak 5b) (yorkshire 5a) Nice though.. and i still claim an E2
Matthew Kilner - 21/Jul/03

I'm 6ft and still can't reach past the hard bit!
Ian - 05/Nov/03

How were you trying to climb this Ian?
Birkby - 06/Nov/03

Same way as anyone else I've seen, but from the series of little footledges I just can't reach the good hold! I have a pretty poor ape index, stubby arms I guess
ian - 10/Nov/03

Looks like you'll have to do the delicate short persons way slightly to the right!?
Birkby - 10/Nov/03

E2 5b did it ages ago on my first time at curbar never been 5c unless your reallty short and im only 5'7"
Rob - 19/Mar/04

A very scary stand up to reach a rubbish hold and an elbow shaking reach for the break. The rest is OK. (Five eleven and three quarters).
alan - 30/May/05

6' 2", Ape Index +3". A 'Path'. Not 5c. If you think it is, go try 'Bad Sneakers' at The Roaches. That's 'Proper 5c'.
hugedyno - 24/Jul/05

Ermm what size cams does this mythical break accept? Are they good?
Just dreaming.
severestu - 04/Aug/05

Can't remember the size but it takes stonking hand jams so they must be 2.5/3/3.5 ish. Tis all over by then but you are a long way off the deck and it would be easy to fcuk up the finish if you were in a panick.

Graham - 05/Aug/05

Currently has a wasp nest in the bank at the base of the arete.
D Berry - 07/Aug/05

I little time spent thinking about moves and using avaialble pebbles and small pockets make this a steady 5b move up for jugs...
Sishaw - 05/Sep/05

5 feet and 10 inches, HVS at most, one semi bold move to the break then laced with cams a plenty. Can have your tea before making the next move at max 5a. Having said all that, great route and it says E2 in the book so I'll take that!
Duz Walker - 14/Sep/05

Do HVS's usually feature unprotected 5b moves 20 feet up then Duz?
Si - 12/Dec/05

Im only 5ft11 but struggled a lot to reach the good hold, had to move a few feet right then just got it - this was definitely harder htan acually climbing up once Id got it.
The top-out is no more tha n5a.
Si dH - 21/Jan/06

Fell of at crux on lead. Then we top roped it with ease! Why? Thought fear made me stick better but not in this case!
Duditz - 30/Jan/06

I found the hardest bit standing up on the good holds, but i think i may have been a bit far left for that section as had to mantle, not rockover.

The top bit is not very hard, but the gear is comforting...
Oli - 15/Feb/06

E1, my arse...
Oli - 25/Sep/06

A fall before getting the gear in the break wouldn't be pretty, and the finnish is not as easy as some make out. Regardless of the grade though its certainly a worthwhile route.
D Berry - 04/Nov/06

The 5b move to get the break is too high for this fine route to be only E1.
lowersharpnose - 18/Sep/07

E1 or E2 dependent on whether you have mats and a willing spotter I reckon.
Owen WG - 27/Sep/07

There may be a 5c move which tall people can avoid, but the move up to the break is 5b regardless of your height and a fall from there is very painful - see my comments 5 years ago.

So definately E2, but 5c or 5b depending on your height.
chris_moor - 22/Oct/07

Either easy E2 or hard E1 5b. Definately not 5c, and the move at the top is only 5a and fairly straightforward. Sensible to put gear in the break, though.

Nice route.
Adam Morris - 17/Feb/08

I've done it solo and it is definately E2 then. With gear in the break its E1. The 5b move is the step through for the ramp that leads to the break and thats at the bottom. Tricky move to top out too!
Liam O'Loughlin - 09/Jul/08

Bollocks this is E1, 5B move quite a long way off the deck, E2 without pads.
Kieran - 31/Mar/09

Ok for E1, the 5b move is above a flat landing and there is a good jug straight after it.
Matt1000 - 21/Sep/10

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 167
    hard E2 0 of 22
    E2 0 of 22
    easy E2 14 of 22
    hard E1 1 of 22
    E1 6 of 22
    easy E1 1 of 22
    hard HVS 0 of 22
    HVS 0 of 22
    easy HVS 0 of 22
    hard 5c 0 of 79
    5c 0 of 79
    easy 5c 0 of 79
    hard 5b 0 of 79
    5b 0 of 79
    easy 5b 0 of 79
    hard 5a 0 of 79
    5a 0 of 79
    easy 5a 0 of 79
    hard 4c 0 of 79
    4c 0 of 79
    easy 4c 0 of 79
    hard 4b 0 of 79
    4b 0 of 79
    easy 4b 0 of 79
    hard 4a 0 of 79
    4a 0 of 79
    easy 4a 0 of 79
    hard 3c 0 of 79
    3c 0 of 79
    easy 3c 0 of 79
    hard 3b 0 of 79
    3b 0 of 79
    easy 3b 0 of 79
    hard 3a 0 of 79
    3a 0 of 79
    easy 3a 0 of 79
    hard 2c 0 of 79
    2c 0 of 79
    easy 2c 0 of 79
    hard 2b 0 of 79
    2b 0 of 79
    easy 2b 0 of 79
    hard 2a 0 of 79
    2a 0 of 79
    easy 2a 0 of 79
    hard ?? 0 of 79
    ?? 0 of 79
    easy ?? 15 of 79
    hard ?? 22 of 79
    ?? 33 of 79
    easy ?? 6 of 79
    hard ?? 3 of 79
    ?? 0 of 79
    easy ?? 0 of 79
    3 Stars 3 of 66
    2 Stars 52 of 66
    1 Star 11 of 66
    0 Stars 0 of 66
    Bag of ..... 0 of 66

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