Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 57
The imposing narrowing fissure is one of gritstone's great crack ticks. A brambly, blocky crack leads to the sentry-box. Runners can be placed deep in the crack (although not when wearing a helmet) but a large cam is a simpler modern method. Shin up the outside of the crack to a jug on the left arete then get established in the upper crack with difficulty. The wide upper crack is a little easier - just keep laybacking. Brilliant!
I hated this at the time, but with hindsight it is a fantastic route and I can't wait to get back on it!
Great, glad to get onsite good inverted foot jam practice
I rated this as Hard E2, the reason being, I thought I was a serious, committing route (You could put that down to bad technique tho!) Did it the old style way without the big cam, the result, after shuffling up the initial crack to the good hold, the gear is miles away, falling of didn't feel like a good option!! Not sure I'd rush back to it (On the sharp end) but a great climb none the less!
Completely desperate! Never been so knackered by a route in my life - my whole body was shaking and I wanted to throw up by the time I dragged myself to the top. I didn't find the 'easy' laybacking on the upper half easy at all. Classic :)
Yosemite 5.8. Get back to school...
5.6 in the Valley