3 Stars
 E1 5b

Adjacent Routes
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Classic grit E1. The leaning groove is awkward and insecure. At the bulge (high wire and/or big cam in the notch) leap onto the left arete and crank like a man possessed to finish or flounder with a flourish. Alternatively, ignore the photogenic jug dangle, and pull straight up into the groove.
FA. Joe Brown (some tension) 1957


It's not a friend 3 - a 3.5 would fit much better (but I didn't have one at the time).
I found it easier to move up the groove a bit before stepping left onto the pocket and reaching the arete.
Damian Haigh - 23/Jun/02

I agree with the comment about the size 3 cam. I fell off the crux with a size 3 cam in, I'm only 9 stones and the cam just popped out.
TS - 03/Mar/03

If you're leading E1 surely you can (should?) tell the difference between a good cam placement and a bad one?
D Berry - 03/Mar/03

In response to D Berry:
Yep, did think the No. 3 placement was a bit dodge at the time, being a tad bit undercammed. But since I don't own a 3.5, thought I'll carry on anyway.
TS - 07/Mar/03

Fair point; something is better than nothing.
D Berry - 07/Mar/03

Haven't led it myself but my partner lobbed of onto a size 3 technical frend and it held fine. He weighs a lot more than 9 stone too.
swirly - 29/Apr/03

Why do you need the cam anyway? I led it with good nuts all the way up (actually my second pointed out the placement - I'd missed it in all the excitement)
RP1 - 03/Jun/03

More intimidating than hard. Most of the adjectival AND technical grade represents placing gear, the actual climbing is more amenable and strenuously fun.
Fiend - 02/Mar/04

Definately friend 3.5, fits perfectly. A stiff pull up and lock-off gains the finishing holds.
John Camateras - 04/May/04

14/24 think hard for E1? Its 1 move wonder from what I remember - butch HVS.
Andrew Mackintosh - 17/Dec/04

all the holds are good just hard work and a big pull. size 3 is rubbish, 3.5 for sure.
jamesturnbull - 04/Jul/05

Led early Septmeber, and it's a tough one, but correctly graded. I didn't bother with any large cams. Decent rack of nuts, get to the upper crack line, good nut and a half-size cam. Then retreat slightly, rest, and do that quite powerful reach (I kept to the side wall, rather than move around left).
Pythonist - 14/Sep/05

I found this desperate, very awkward and off-balance reaching up the nose and I couldnt see where I was going from there (dyno??). Ended up lowering off.
Si - 29/May/06

well protected all the way.
a friend 4 will just fit in the notch and has been seen to hold a fall but it's a bit tight and a 3.5 would be a better fit.
good footwork makes the bottom section up to the notch fairly straightforward and then a few powerful moves gain the top. great fun and spot on for the grade
Alex Elsworth - 27/Apr/10

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 115
    hard E2 0 of 40
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