Overhang Buttress Ordinary

2 Stars
 VS 4b

Adjacent Routes
<< Spanish Fly < Vaya Con Dios  |  Infirmary Groove > Traction >>

Intimidating and tricky. Start as for the previous route until it is possible to writhe into the vertical crack and finish easily. Passing the change in angle is a complete swine!
FA. Eric Byne 1934


It is most definitely not easy to squeeze up the vertical crack! But well worth doing.

After you've completed the stomach/back traverse (really!), the move to then stand up again is very exposed for the leader: an extremely unpleasant ground fall awaits if your protection is faulty.

At the top of the vertical crack, the move to get onto easier ground was hard to protect, too.

VS my arse. Try E1. I'll vote for HVS, but only because E1 is unavailable as an option.
WeeDom - 10/May/04

No way is this route E1. VS possibly - hard to grade as it's not exactly a technical climb! There's reasonable gear where you need it, and standing up in the crack was a lot easier than I expected. In fact, I found getting into the horizontal break somewhat harder.
Stuart Fox - 17/May/04

Come off it Wee Dom, it was not that hard. It did feel exposed when you stood up after the back traverse, but only VS sort of exposed. It was more like caving than climbing. A classic Grit Thug Route.
David Hewitt - 18/May/04

Perhaps a shade over enthusiastic. But I felt that the consequences of falling off at the "standing up in the crack" bit were serious. But fairy snuff, I stand corrected.
Weedom (suitably mollified) - 24/May/04

An unusual and enjoyable route. The stand-up move to get into the final crack is intimidating but not hard. The rest is ok, so decking really shouldn't be likely at all. Definitely not more than VS, although might feel harder if VS is your top lead grade.
Andrew Barker - 16/May/05

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 11
    hard HVS 0 of 4
    HVS 0 of 4
    easy HVS 1 of 4
    hard VS 0 of 4
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    hard ?? 1 of 3
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    3 Stars 0 of 4
    2 Stars 4 of 4
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    Bag of ..... 0 of 4

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