Waterloo Sunset

3 Stars
 E3 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Whisky Wall < Muswell Hillbillies  |  Finale Groove > Babylon's Finale >>

The last of the classic Gardom's E3s is a bold arete climb which is often green. Start on the right and climb to a break where runners protect the moves up and left to easier ground. Oddly the route doesn't climb much like an arete.
FA. Martin Boysen 1977


Most interesting. A very enjoyable route with surprisingly "un-aretey" climbing (vaguely like an mild E3 EOTA or Equilibrium) on the upper section - which is surely best tackled direct instead of heading off left on the line of maxium greeness (in which case fall left for more airspace).
Fiend - 27/Jan/04

miles easier than the crocodile.
dave - 18/Aug/04

agree with fiend in that I don't recall a single 'arete move' really. I found this quite demanding for E3. Was worried about the pedastal/block that meets the butress at the bottom on the right as the line seemed to push you right after completion of the crux. you'd need a quick belayer if you came off here i reckon.
Steve Ramsden - 18/Dec/05

harder than it looks and a fall from the crux would put you near the ground. interesting moves, stay on the arete as fiend says to finish.
luke - 20/Nov/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 30
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