Apple Arete

3 Stars
 VS 4b

Adjacent Routes
<< N.M.C. Crack < Apple Arete Direct  |  Apple Crack > Apple Core >>

The tall left-hand arete of the buttress is excellent and mild. Climb the central crack and make a short traverse left to the arete at the earliest opportunity. This is then followed throughout with good runners in the breaks and lovely positions. The route is very photogenic from either side.
FA. David Penlington 1952


Unbelievably good - one of the best routes I've ever done.
Simon C - 05/Jun/02

Good location - quiet - hard to keep just to the arete tho'.
Goose - 01/Jan/03

Quality route. Lovely and delicate. Not so sure about "mild at the grade" though. I guess it would be if you're a strong gritstone slab climber. Protection is good, but you can normally only place the kit after you've made the move you'd like to have protected (hence the VS 4b grade I guess).
James McN - 14/Jul/03

Definately worth fighting through the undergrowth for this one.
Keith - 15/Jul/03

It's much easier to walk along the top of the crag at Gardom's - too much like hard work to scramble along the bottom between the buttresses!
Nick Smith - 15/Jul/03

Just read a couple of old guidebooks, 1970 and 1981, both have this route traversing left at 8 feet, ie below the flake of Apple Crack. Tried this yesterday, much harder, at least 4c, but with gear above the head.
Simon Caldwell - 04/Aug/03

i didn't find this easy for VS but it was my first VS after a layoff due to injury so I could be wrong. The middle section is superb.
DaveF - 15/Sep/03

i didn't find this easy for VS but it was my first VS after a layoff due to injury so I could be wrong. The middle section is superb.
DaveF - 15/Sep/03

I climbed this before the advent of Rockfax (but later than 1981) and I traversed onto the arete at 3m. Seems more logical to get onto the arete as early as possible.
Nick Eaton - 01/Apr/04

A quality route with a good feeling of exposure for the grade, without having to change your underwear
David Hewitt - 18/May/04

Simply perfect, good gear, yet nice exposure :D
slack---line - 19/Mar/05

Definitely best to traverse in the first break, not higher up. I say the grade is fair enough, possibly 4c. Very nice!
Si dH - 16/May/05

4c felt about right. A good route, my first after 8 weeks since breaking my back. Worth the wait!
Iggy_B - 02/Oct/05

Rather contrived and eliminate. Worth maybe 1* in my book.
TobyA - 06/May/06

Contrived and eliminate?? That couldn't be further from the truth. The line is perfect, natural and in a wonderful position. The climbing is excellent. Deserves the 3 stars and miserable grumps should stay away. LOL
Mat - 12/Jun/06

Climbing the face of the narrow buttress makes it easier and very mild at the grade.
Sticking to the holds on the arete is a little harder and definately better, although requires more discipline (guess thats why "contrived and eliminate" in a previous comment).
Narrowness of the arete/buttress does give a pleasant degree of exposure although never really feels "out there" - possibly because of potential escape rightwards (to a vdiff) on all but the final positions.
kristian birchall - 18/Jun/06

As everyone says, just lovely. Great position, comfortable jams, friction, high posing factor.
Iain Thow - 17/Mar/07

yer very nice in the upper section but very escapable to the rght in bottom half. i stayed in the middle of the slab not the arete which felt more like 4c...all very pleasant.
shaun walby - 03/May/10

Modern friends make this pretty well protected: these days I reckon more like HS-4c. Whatever, a superb route enhanced by a good Spring evening.
Brian Mattock - 14/Apr/15

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 220
    hard HVS 0 of 74
    HVS 0 of 74
    easy HVS 0 of 74
    hard VS 2 of 74
    VS 34 of 74
    easy VS 26 of 74
    hard HS 12 of 74
    HS 0 of 74
    easy HS 0 of 74
    hard 4c 0 of 71
    4c 0 of 71
    easy 4c 12 of 71
    hard 4b 9 of 71
    4b 43 of 71
    easy 4b 7 of 71
    hard 4a 0 of 71
    4a 0 of 71
    easy 4a 0 of 71
    3 Stars 61 of 75
    2 Stars 12 of 75
    1 Star 2 of 75
    0 Stars 0 of 75
    Bag of ..... 0 of 75

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