Vía de los bomberos

3 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< Ulan Bator < Bomberos Direct  |  Hambre eterna > Via Llum de Lluna >>

A tremendous route which takes the best line of unvegetated rock up the huge wall of the bay. The climbing is sustained but never desperate, and the views from the stances are excellent. Start at a clear area below a big white tufa in a hollow.
1) 6a. Take the right-hand line of bolts to the white tufa.
2) 6a+. Pull up right and climb the blunt rib.
3) 6b. A long pitch - take lots of quick-draws.
4) 6b. Steady climbing leads to a tricky section, about 10m from the final belay.
Descent - Abseil off on double ropes.


We thought pitch 3 was the crux pitch, sustained 6b.
Grahame N - 02/May/08

I also found the third pitch hard:6b. I note that in '100 best climbs in Catalunya' it is also graded 6b and in that guide the grades are tough.
One of the best routes I have done in Spain, but tough on finger tips.
william Oliver Hill - 30/Apr/09

If you just do the first pitch and lower off, a 70m rope will only just get you down
James Duffy - 17/Apr/12

Have bolted on lead a 5th pitch with consent of first ascensionists. 30m 6b. 18m 5 new bolts then 2 from Mongol Express then tree, piton and juggy corner of Normal to chain belay. Then last 30m grade 4 pitch of Normal to top out. Can be protected with 4-5 threads if deemed necessary.
Derek Watson - 19/Apr/19

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