<< Via Llum de Lluna < Princesa | Placa aspera > Tierra al reves >>
More adventurous than Princesa, and on great rock. There are various ways of combining pitches, including doing the whole thing in just three pitches with 60m ropes.
1) 6b+. Climb the steep wall past an optional stance to a small ledge - a long pitch, the upper part of which has a line of bolts that lead left into the line of Princesa - do not go this way.
2) 6a. Climb up left then back right to a poor sloping stance.
3) 6b+. Move up and right via thin moves and tackle the overhang (try not to go too direct) and continue to a stance.
4) 6a. Continue up on great rock to a shared stance with Princesa.
5) 6b+. Tackle the overhang and enjoy the steep slabs to the top, passing another optional belay.
Descent - As for Princesa.
there are now two (or more) harder pitches diverging from the route - the first going over a bulge to the right of the route (after 1,5 pitches, new bolts), the second as a variant of the last pitch, diverging to the left. To topo foto is not to precise so be careful not to be confused. then it is a marvellous route!!
Friedemann Romhild - 25/Jan/06
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