Sexo débil

3 Stars

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An amazing route that weaves its way up the shady right-hand side of the bay through some dramatic territory. If you can come to terms with the ethical dilemma of the bolt-on holds on pitch 3, then you will be able to reach the last two pitches which are superb. Start below the pillar of rock below the right-hand side of the cave.
1) 4. Climb to the base of the corner.
2) 6a+. Pull up and right onto the wall, then climb to the ledge below an impressive bulging wall.
3) 6b+. Traverse right, then heave up the tufas and 'bolt-ons'. These have worked loose over the years, making this pitch quite hard. A sling may be needed for aid.
4) 6b. Make a superb, rising traverse leftwards, on immaculate rock and just enough holds, to a hanging belay. As good as it gets!
5) 6b. Traverse back right and up the open groove to the top.
Descent - Abseil down the route. With a single 60m rope, you will need to make three abseils via stances at the end of pitches 3 and 1


Just in case others fancied just doing the first pitch, two things to note: 1) Excellent climbing at the grade and 2) Use 60m rope, the pitch is close to 30m long not 20m as stated in the guide
madshannibal - 26/Apr/06

Brilliant route; the spinning bolt-ons (every single one was loose) and the exposure make this route unlike any other
PS - 26/Apr/07

Be very careful, in these route we had a lot of falling rocks. Use your helmet.
Tobias Langmaack - 19/Apr/09

An amazing route! Newly re-bolted and the bolt-on holds were secure and more tastefully used than expected. And Pitch 5 does have a very large loose rock in the top gully . . . so go steady. The end result is finishing on one of the best (and among the most comfortable) belay points in the world.
alexadgar - 09/May/09

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