Todos los Santos

3 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< Pepe el rojo < C&eacute;sar  |  Recolecta > Burilazo >>

A line up the grey buttress that forms the right-hand side of the face. It is the most popular of the longer routes.
1) 5. Climb to the base of a big tapering chimney.
2) 6a. Move right onto the arête (lower-off) then up to a steep bulge. A tricky pull gains the belay on the right.
3) 6a+ A steep rising traverse leads left then head straight up the wall to easier ground.
4) 5+. The final pitch is very pleasant.
Descent - Abseil back down the route.


we did this route last week.It starts at its name plate which is more left than the picture shows.The bolts are black for first pitch ,then turn to green.The rock on pitch two was a bit loose and conglomerate.
coco - 27/Mar/05

Agree line not shown properly on photo and we only found three pitches not four!
Brian Wilkinson - 01/Mar/06

Agree with Brian. Three pitches not four. First belay wrongly illustrated in the picture. It is actually down and to the left in the cave. Next pitch is steep and has some loose rock but is good climbing with care. There are now several very good looking single pitch routes to the left of this route.
john yates - 16/Dec/06

Did this route 19/11/07 and found four pitches.In the last few months the pitch names and grades have been painted on the rock at the start of the routes.The local grading is 5,6+,5+,5 (on the rock)perhaps the shortish first pitch is 4,but otherwise spot on.According to the local guide there about ten single pitch routes to the left of this and about 4 to the right.
Barry Duckworth - 30/Nov/07

We did it in 4 pitchs. No tbeing sure where first belay was. best to belay after 50 feet below cave at first set belay, and then climb diagonally right up right arete of cave. Best pitch was a stiffish 5+ long last pitch,
william Oliver Hill - 13/Apr/08

Nice route and great rock! Easy start, second 6a has a quite hard move, the 6a+ has some small finger holds. Last 5+ still quite hard. Great adventure and view at top.

Unfortunately, for the first abseil(from top) is something like 38 meters. So with a 70 m rope, like we ended up at the first bolt of the last pitch and we had to climb back down to the belay. Luckily we did not forgot a knot in the end of the rope!!!

So use a 80 m rope, or 2x50/60. Heard from some English guys there is also another abseil further to the right.
Jeeedeee - 05/Jan/15

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.