2 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< Pedro el molisero < La Cantera  |  IX Cap&iacute;tulos > Trompases >>

160m. Climb the face for one pitch then trend left to climb the face direct. The individual pitch grades are 5, 4, 4+, 4, 6a, 4. Not in current guidebook.
FA. S.Jiménez, M.Pomares 1972


There is some confusion between this route and IX Capítulos. The noticeboard on the walk in shows IX Capituos going straight up and Sali branching off right at the second belay. I've put a picture of the board on flickr (my name there is brownhenley).
The red line shows bolted routes; blue means self protection. We found:
1. 48m. 5. A line of bolts with no hangers leading to a new belay station with a chain.
2. 35m. 5+. A double line of bolts leads up the splendid brown shield to a bolt belay in the bay. Tough for the grade.
3. 20m. 6a. A single line of bolts leads to a belay with faded tapes and a maillon. Barely harder than pitch 2, slightly steeper, wonderful climbing with hidden finger pockets.
4. 35m. 4 up the slab with bolt protection to an amusing 4+ finale through the yellow overlap.
Simon Brown - 05/Nov/08

I believe that's the description of IX Capitulos. We climbed it a couple of days ago and were first put off by the first pitch - old bolts with no hangers, shrubbery - not good at all. The rest of the route correlates 100% with what you've written. The bolts on the third pitch are the old 8mm. The start of the route is marked by the wooden plaque, so I believe it's standard to climb the first unprotected (sling some bushes) pitch, but it might be better to scramble to the first bolted belay from the right side (looking in), there appears to be a low-angle ramp/shelf going all the way.
Alexey Dolinin - 07/Nov/10

Definitely approach IX Capitulos from higher up on the right and scramble up and left to the first bolt belay. Thereafter as per Simon Brown's description. Can get down in 2 abseils from the top. Not sure if anyone does Sali as not bolted..
Jonathan Preston - 29/Nov/10

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.