Vía Gene

2 Stars

Adjacent Routes
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VS. A good route following a strong natural line and with a grand finish. The whole thing can be managed on a single rope although this might make retreat difficult. Start at the groove where the name is scratched.
1) 4+, 45m. The vegetated groove, and its cleaner continuation lead to a tree belay. The groove 12m to the left is a better and cleaner alternative, with no change in the grade.
2) 4, 45m. Traverse diagonally right to a tree and continue past a pair of bolts to a belay on a pair of pegs.
3) 4+, 30m. Move right into a groove with a bush and climb this. At the its top move right up slabs to belay on a huge ledge.
4) 4+, 55m. Scramble up right to a left slanting break (possible belay), and climb this to a long ridge. Follow this to the top of a pillar and a two bolt belay in a corner.
5) 4+, 50m. Move up and left into a groove and left again into another. Up this to an exit on the left to ledge and peg belay.
6) 4+, 45m. Continue up the ridge (pegs) to reach a ledge just below the crest, single peg belay.
7) 3, 45m. Move up right onto the ridge and traverse right to first deep notch in the ridge, and a 3 bolt belay with wire cable.


A good mountaineering route in a fine setting.
Personally I'd recommend double ropes, particularly for the ab, as the ab wall is very steep and with double ropes you can reach trees with cables on them and get down in 2 abs. Take appropriate footwear for the rough scree descent below the ab.
Chris Heald - 02/Mar/05

A good route. Overgraded at 5. Much easier decent if, at the notch, you absail off down the right side in 3 abs. You miss the scree altogether then, avoiding the need to take different footware. One ab down to a big ledge on the face (ab rings) another down to the big platform, then another from the single tree on the cliff edge.
Rob Webb - 17/Mar/05

It's more like a walk than a climb. Don't forget your gardening tools
ramon marin martinez - 08/Jun/05

Clásica, fácil y bonita,último largo con piedras descompuestas,peor el destrepe,tres rapeles con cuerda de 60 o dos con doble cuerda; os gustará
chema - 22/Feb/06

Agreed, Gene isn't hard but it is a mountaineering route with lots of vegetation, large ledges, good belays and some fixed gear; you only need a light rack. Pitches 1 and 2 are 30m max. not 45, and don't do pitch 4 in one; belay at the end of the walk/scramble.
Pitch 5 is the hardest and most serious with some route finding and protection difficulties.
The scree descent is pretty horrible but it turns the route into an expedition!
The bottom half of this route faces NW.
Tim Jepson - 15/Nov/07

On pitch four, only scramble about halfway across the slope, then go straight up the slab, heading directly for the second visible thread and from there up the ridge to the bottom of the pillar. If you follow the slope all the way to the groove you'll have severe rope-drag.
pah41071 - 04/Dec/18

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