3 Stars

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A fully-equipped sport route up the right-hand side of the face and the wall above the huge ledge. It can be done up and down on a 70m rope. The pitches are:
1) 6b, 45m.
2) 6b+, 28m.
3) 6b, 40 (or 65 )m.
4) 6a+, 18m.


Excellent looking line but the bolts are really badly placed making the climbing dangerous for a sport route. First bolt was at 12m with others in places that would result in a fall being huge and definatly hitting ledges on the way down.
Steve hall - 27/Feb/05

Have done this route and thought that it was a superb 3 star multi-pitch sport route (cannot relate to comments made above).
However the following description is more accurate than the one given in the guide (double ropes advised).
Pitch 1 45 metres 6b. Climb the obvious line of bolts up the front of the pillar; (This pitch cannot be descended on a doubled 35 metre rope without leaving gear behind; there is no intermediate abseil station).
Pitch 2 28 metres 6b+. Step off the pillar and cross the gap to climb the steep wall behind (intricate and technical)
Now walk / scramble across the huge ledge to find the line of bolts behind the tree in the right hand corner at the back of the bay below the huge face.
Pitch 3 40 metres 6c. Climb the sustained wall to the belay chain on the skyline passing an intermediate abseil chain in the middle of wall).
Pitch 4 18 metres 6a / 6a+ climb leftwards to reach the uppermost of two separate lower off chains situated in the hole through the crest of the ridge.
keith morgan - 14/Mar/05

Apologies but first pitch description should obviously say 70 metre and not 35 metre rope.
Keith Morgan - 29/Mar/05

Pitch 3 is nearer 55 metres to the belay chain if done in one runout. Double ropes are definately required for abseil descent from the skyline belay.
Keith Morgan - 02/May/05

Near one year old was instaled some new abseil points to abseil the upper wall. Then you can make the 3 pith longer than the original and could be 6c. On the first ascent we abseiled with a 60 m rope but the last abseil was made from the charasteristic pine tree on the left side.
David Mora
David Mora - 23/Jun/05

Great route. The top section of the route has three distinct pitches (i.e. three belay points). The individual pitch grades are probably 6b,6b+/6c,6a (all about 20m long)

I guess stringing the first two together gives you a 40m solid 6c. However, we split them. Either way, these pitches are superb.

The first pitch is almost 45m long and has 9 bolts so feels a little run out on the easier bits.
chris s - 15/Feb/06

The first pitch needs the 3rd bolt repositioning as it is way of route and too high to clip safely.A nasty fall could occur as the moves off the ledge are very thin another bolt to protect this move would be sensible.
john warburton - 24/Jan/10

No problem descending this route with 70m rope.From the top of 2nd pitch abseil to chain(new?) in the gap between pillar taken by ist pitch and main face and then down left side of pillar. Also it is not worth considerably risking your car driving to higher parking spot mentioned in Rockfax .You'd only save 10 minutes walk plus actually parking your car without annoying resident would be very dificult.
dwbooth - 24/Jan/10

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