Vía Valencianos

3 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< Cocidito madrile&ntilde;o < Gorilas en la roca  |  Viaje Espacial > Jack Daniels >>

E1. A fine, and huge climb up the centre of the face, the first line on the cliff, put up in 1972. The route has over 500m of climbing and a lot of rambling - even fast teams will want to start early. The best start is to use the first pitch of Gorilas although the original start came in from the left in three grassy pitches.
1) 6a, 45m. As for Gorilas en la roca.
2) 2+, 40m. Scramble along the ledge, then up the ramp.
3) 3, 40m. Contiue up the ramp as it steepens.
4) 4+, 40m. Climb the slab moving right at half-height to reach a small stance below steeper rock.
5) 6a, 45m. The crucial pitch contains plenty of fixed gear, though not enough to aid climb it. Follow this up and left across the wall (passing an optional stance) to reach the base of an open groove.
6) 4+, 35m. Climb the groove to its end and a belay on the left.
7) 4+, 25m. Weave up the wall to a stance below easier ground.
8) 3, 40m. Trend right then up, the right again to the major ledge system that cuts across the upper part of the face.
9) 1, 50m. Follow the ledges right to below an open groove.
10) 4+, 30m. Up the groove to the higher ledge system.
Note: It is possible to escape right from here along the ledge system, to join the descent route. Care required.
11) 1, 50m. Scramble back left to where the ledge ends.
12) 3, 20m. Climb the ramp to a belay below a leaning groove.
13) 6a, 35m. Up the groove to its closure where exposed moves reach easy ground.
14) 4, 50m. Easier climbing trending slightly right reaches the top - at last.
Descent - Walk uphill in a northeast direction towards the top of the hill to a small col (cairns). A 40m abseil from a tree leads to open ground. Head down and left (cairns and white arrows) out onto the buttress to the north of the huge gully. On the end of this descend a ramp to locate the anchors. Two abseils (25m and 30m) lead to the foot of the face.
FA. J.Pi, J.Adalid, C.Torregrosa 1972


Superb route, enough the rambling pitches link you to more classic pitches. All the 4+ pitches are quite tricky for the grade (about VS 4c) and airy, and almost feel harder than the clip up 6a pitches. A better start is the first pitch of Gorrilas en la Roca which gives another 6a pitch. The top 6a pitch is well worth doing, a great airy move out of a corner after supposedly 15 pitches, but we did the route in 9 pitches on double 60's, moving together on the really easy bits. Other routes around, make sure you traverse far left to get to the last 6a corner, it's further than you think!
Chad Harrison - 24/Apr/06

Agree that its definitely worth adding the first pitch of Gorillas to make it 3 pitches of decent climbing. Both F6a pitches are really good but there isn't much actual climbing on the route otherwise. Flor de Luna is miles better.
Heike - 08/Jan/07

Los Valencianos. It's a breeze. I say this because I did it age 65 with good young mates on the weekend of the big storm (24th Jan 2009). Only being light, I had to crawl the ridge pitch, ie the fin. Pitch 3 is shiny, but you can't see your face in it yet. I must confess I grabbed the runner left by my mate. I'm still grinning! A great route in challenging conditions. Highly recommended. Derek (sling grabber) Carter, Bristol.
Derek Carter - 08/Feb/09

i think you are getting mixed up with via valencianos on the penon!
alan - 06/Sep/09

Why does this route have any stars, let alone three, in the guidebook? Two 6a pitches where OK but to do them you have to deal with over 400 meters of scrappy climbing and bushwhacking.
My guess is the guys and gals at Rockfax are laughing every time they read/hear about teams who took the bait...
Mike C - 29/Apr/15

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