Heaven Can't Wait

3 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< Cactus Climb < Stolen Fruit  |  Alcalali Eighteen > Matrix >>

Formerly 7b+ (on a different line at the top) but now with more bolts and an easier finish.


The route is spoilt by excessively long run outs between the bolts, bolts off route on the crux and inaddition to this the route is dirty.
RD - 03/Apr/05

There are run outs, but I think there is a clean fall.Nice rote, but I'm agree it's a bit dirty for the shoes.
juan - 10/Apr/05

This route has been ruined by the addition of several new bolts, the chopping of bolts on the original line, and the placing of a new belay which directs people up the rib right of the groove, thereby completely avoiding the old crux.

This is a great shame, as Heaven Can't Wait used to be a quite superb, technical testpiece with intense, bold and insecure climbing - a very unusual climb for the area. I hate bolt wars, because in the end it is the rock which suffers, but if it was my route, I would be very tempted to chop the new bolts and attempt to re-establish the original line...
Neil Foster - 06/Jan/07

I really enjoyed the route - if it was clean I think it would be worth 3*
The new finish does have the advantage that it avoids any seepage in the upper group
Neil Binns - 04/Jan/10

"group" should read "groove"!
Neil Binns - 04/Jan/10

Nice climb, well bolted. There are many crags where this would get 7a.
Ged Desforges - 20/Feb/12

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