Derecha del Espolón

3 Stars

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A classic, the most popular climb on the cliff and with good reason. Start just right of the fall-line from the groove on the right-hand side of the pillar at a well-trodden area.
1) 4+, 50m. Wander up easy slabs to the 1st bolt then climb the groove via the odd tricky move past a stance moving over left to another on the tip of the tower - 10 bolts.
2) 5, 30m. Climb the face trending slightly left to a short tricky wall, the crux, leading to a groove. Up this to a stance out left.
3) 4, 20m. Trend right up the wall by good sustained climbing then move up and left to a small exposed stance.
4) 5, 20m. Up the face until a couple of tricky moves lead to easier ground. Up the gully to the top.
FA. J.Fenor, A.Vera 1960s


A fantastic route.
We did the first pitch OK with 50m ropes, and took a rack of wires, but didnt place any...the route is very well bolted.
I felt the technical crux of the route was the first move off the 4th pitch.
The desent is equipped with twin bolts at each station, but they are twist hangers, not rings so you will need to take some tat to leave behind.
Ewan - 25/Feb/05

A great route with lots of variety.
Need to move a few metres left at the end of the first pitch. Follow the arrow!
Gregor - 29/Nov/05

Very nice route, but the first pitch is nowhere near 60 m, rather around 40.
Roland - 14/Jun/06

Climbed it in mid Dec 06. Agree with others that the top pitch is as hard as the second one.

You still need to bring tat to leave behind for the abseils.
/Johan Sandberg
Johan Sandberg - 01/Jan/07

Great route, agree second (5) and final (4+) pitches are equally interesting! Used single 60m rope, first pitch was shorter than this (we belayed from the bottom of the route proper not the path). Small cairn marked abseil point; tat or maillons still required for abseil in March 2007. Enjoy!
Lou - 26/Mar/07

Abseil OK in Dec. '07 - twin rings on each ab. Great route but mind the warning about wind and watch out for incoming rain!
andy say - 22/Dec/07

If you start as per the guidebook (ie from the path rather than the ledge just below the 1st bolt) the pitch 1 is definitely 60m.
The abseils are fully equipped - if you have double 60m ropes you can (just!) get down in 3 abs of 60, 60, and 30m. Probably quicker to go up the wire cable and down the other descent route though.
Good climbing throughout, but not particularly memorable somehow.
Simon Caldwell - 15/Apr/08

A lovely route on very good rock. Watch out for those bluddy cacti on the approach - they're vicious !
Iain Jones - 20/Oct/09

This is a nice and safe (well-bolted) multi-pitch route. We did it in May 2010 and enjoyed it very much. The climbing is nice and usually about 4/4+. There are only a few moves harder than 4+ on the entire route, so it makes for an enjoyable and somewhat stress-free undertaking.

We scrambled up to near the first bolt of the first pitch, which made it 40m in length, 10 bolts. At the first anchor, move left about 5m to change anchors and start the second pitch. You can easily walk (or be belayed) across a big comfy ledge to reach them.

The second pitch had probably the best climbing. There is another big ledge to belay from at the second anchor.

The third pitch has nice climbing too. The belay ledge is a bit smaller.

The beginning of the fourth pitch is probably the crux of the climb. But after that it is smooth sailing to the anchors as the angle eases considerably near the top, although it is significantly run-out. One more bolt wouldve been nice. The anchor is far left, which creates some rope drag. Use long runners on the few bolts if possible.

We scrambled up the wire cable and down the ridgeline to reach the first of two rappels. The anchor has a quickclip carabiner about 1m below the cliff edge. The rappel is about 20m long. After the rappel, scramble down the small trail for about 30-40m until the next rappel. The second rappel is longer (30m). Then scramble back to the base of the climb and back to the parking.

Overall a nice multi-pitch route with a low level of worry or problems.
Richard - 17/May/10

Great climb. Started early as the wall is in shade until about 10am and then a breeze kept it ok for the rest.
Roped in at the path for a nice 60m pitch. Second and third pitches both great climbing with heaps of bolts. Start of 4th pitch quite gnarly for a 4+. Advised by locals at the top not to use Via Nuria to abseil so followed them off round the way Richard used.
Peter Howarth - 06/Oct/10

Climbing is banned on this sector until 31/12/2013. The sign also shows that hiking in the area is also prohibited.
Julian Mitchell - 13/Jun/11

It seemed to us as if access is back here. We were told by a local climber that access was ok and the closed sign shown in the new 2013 rockfax is no longer there. We did a couple of routes this week 25-02-13
brian dickson - 03/Mar/13

First 2 abseils on the left are slightly more than 60m (say 1.5 meter short with our twin rope) but you can scramble off relatively safely. The 3-4 abseil I saw our rope well short of reaching the flats and did not want to risk it...
...which left us with no option than find Nb.3 and NOTHING around... could not find the damn abseil station. This is not funny, as it was the 2nd time (previous was in 2012).

Solution: we left a couple of beautiful alloy screw-lock chain rings on a relay, a gift for the next Guys. DO NOT REMOVE please... ;-)
Franck MIKULECZ - 01/Jun/15

climbed on Dec. 12, 2015
P1 = 4a 55m ! P2 = 4c, P3= 4c/5a with crux, P4 = 4c/3c.
descent easy: follow the cables and turn east, scamble down along the cairns, 2nd rappel is 35m! rappel the "directa" possible with 2x 60m. route is well protected, great climb, nice belays and considering all the ascents not greasy. see my video: "pared negra espolon derecha" ...
henryx2 - 16/Dec/15

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