2 Stars
 VS 4c

Adjacent Routes
<< Amazing Grace < Sail Chimney  |  Marie's Gone to Canada > Monument Chimney Crack >>

A classic and low in the grade - except for the short! Approach the overhang via a crack and groove (thread) and power through the bulge via a flake. The slab above is much easier. The cam slot in the roof has become dramatically enlarged by people sitting on the gear and grinding the rock. It is tough love but if you are resting on the gear maybe the route is too hard for you.
FA. David Penlington 1951


A one move route. But what a move! Go for it.
Martin - 24/Jun/02

Totally agree. It is a great move though. Quite intimidating at first...then it all gets nice again.
RobS - 21/Oct/02

A great move certainly; but requires more than one for 3 stars IMHO.
D Berry - 23/Feb/03

According to my second the niche under the roof also makes a very comfortable seat!
D Berry - 23/Feb/03

Bit of a one move wonder. A nice one move though.
RobD - 24/Feb/03

It was great!
Mike Lee - 10/Jul/03

Feel those stars............
James McN - 15/Sep/03

i was up for this, but then i climbed it and got to the top thinking why? its good, clean, nice, safe as a house, not a grovel or thruch. But not worth vs, or 3 stars, was over before it started.
rob e - 27/Oct/03

Unlike Rob, I don't object to good, clean, safe as house, not a grovel or thrutch routes, so I thought Topsail was good.
Bit harder for the short (like me) who have to work a bit harder for the hold, but great for a one move wonder route, and still recomendable.
ander - 11/Feb/04

Move requires a bit of commitment and if you want you can put a small friend in the flake and reverse to a rest....good route mind, but not 3 stars
Simon Ash - 03/May/04

I've done this route a couple of times and i do like it but in my opinion its only worth top end HS 4b and i'm a shortarse.
Adam Moroz - 12/Dec/04

Agree with Adam on the grade. Easy to get up to crux, bomber gear, one move wonder. 1 star IMO.
Mutl3y - 14/Jul/05

Has someone been chipping on this route as there is a suspiciously good hex placement that's not been there long. A great one move wonder around HVS 5c... :)
James Smith - 03/Sep/05

HVS 5c? Absolutely Not. Adam has it right. If you want HVS 5c (and there aint many) try Orpheus Wall.
jonny2vests - 04/Sep/05

The underside of the overhang appears to be eroding at an alarming rate - presumably by people putting friends in the wide crack. Please try and avoid this - a sling round the thread is surely all you need
chris_moor - 29/Sep/06

Was there recently and thought the hex placment in topsail had been chipped, the grit is very orange, compared to remaininf rock.
Ian - 10/Oct/06

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 334
    hard HVS 0 of 115
    HVS 0 of 115
    easy HVS 2 of 115
    hard VS 0 of 115
    VS 28 of 115
    easy VS 55 of 115
    hard HS 30 of 115
    HS 0 of 115
    easy HS 0 of 115
    hard 5a 0 of 111
    5a 0 of 111
    easy 5a 0 of 111
    hard 4c 0 of 111
    4c 0 of 111
    easy 4c 0 of 111
    hard 4b 0 of 111
    4b 0 of 111
    easy 4b 0 of 111
    hard 4a 0 of 111
    4a 0 of 111
    easy 4a 0 of 111
    hard 3c 0 of 111
    3c 0 of 111
    easy 3c 0 of 111
    hard 3b 0 of 111
    3b 0 of 111
    easy 3b 0 of 111
    hard 3a 0 of 111
    3a 0 of 111
    easy 3a 0 of 111
    hard 2c 0 of 111
    2c 0 of 111
    easy 2c 0 of 111
    hard 2b 0 of 111
    2b 0 of 111
    easy 2b 0 of 111
    hard 2a 0 of 111
    2a 0 of 111
    easy 2a 0 of 111
    hard ?? 0 of 111
    ?? 0 of 111
    easy ?? 2 of 111
    hard ?? 6 of 111
    ?? 55 of 111
    easy ?? 26 of 111
    hard ?? 22 of 111
    ?? 0 of 111
    easy ?? 0 of 111
    3 Stars 49 of 108
    2 Stars 45 of 108
    1 Star 11 of 108
    0 Stars 3 of 108
    Bag of ..... 0 of 108

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