Nueva Edición

1 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< The Edward's Finish < Directisima  |  Edge of Time > V&iacute;a Julia >>

E5. Exposed climbing with a UK grade of E5 6a. Start to the left of a ramp and directly below a faint crack coming down from the right side of an overhang high up.
1) 6b, 40m. Follow thin cracks to a shallow groove right of the roof. Climb this to a belay on blocks.
2) 6b, 25m. Climb up to a pocket and continue to a bay on the right. Follow the thin crack above to belay in another bay.
3) 6c, 20m. Climb the steep wall above and left of the cave. Join Vía Julia at the end of the layback.
4) 6a, 25m. Climb the groove on the left, move right and up to a tree. Make a rising traverse across the wall to a small niche.
5) 6a, 25m. Climb to a thread and continue up a scoop. Move up and right, then direct to a large flake crack. Belay.
6) 7a, 20m. Climb the middle of the wall (thread) then continue straight up. Take the crack on the right to reach a stance.
7) 4, 25m. Climb the steep slabs to the ledges on the left and a belay shared with Vía Julia.
Descent - Either continue to join the descent for Via Julia, or, abseil back down Edge of Time via the bolt belays.
FA. R Edwards, C.Edwards 1995


No comments on this route. Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.