Diedros Mágicos

3 Stars

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E1. A great mountain route. Start below the long groove which goes the full length of the face. A full rack is required, and the route can be done in three huge pitches if required.
1) 5, 25m. Climb the corner to a cave which has a bolt belay.
2) 5, 25m. Continue up the corner to another bolt belay.
3) 5+, 30m. Follow the corner to a peg. Move right across the wall (a devious move) to a good ledge and bolt belay.
4) 4, 25m. Move up then follow grooves and cracks leftwards to belay back in the main groove.
5) 6a, 50m. Climb up to another ledge and a possible belay. Move up to the roof above then a hard move right leads into a corner. Up this, then left to another corner which leads to the top. Abseil off from here or the pillar above leads to the top in four more pitches (grade 4 ).
FA. H.García Gallego 1980


Take extra rope slings to make the first two abseils safe. The top abseil off the pillar needs a double length; then we abbed (perhaps wrongly) off the pitch4 belay and that needed a single-length sling.
Simon Brown - 18/May/05

A very good route. Very sustained with a magnificent long top out. Bridging on the crux is the key
ramon marin martinez - 01/Jun/05

Brilliant route which can be done in 3 pitches if you have 60m ropes (and at least 16 quick draws). Very sustained and the crux is a full on gritstone thrutch with a lot of fresh air below you
Chris the Tall - 22/Jan/06

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