1 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< Mosca derecha < Mosca directa  |  A Game of Two Halves > The October Sessions >>

HS. A long route with a spectacular finish. Start to the right of some large bushes growing 10m up the face.
1) 4, 45m. Climb cracks and grooves to the right of the tree then continue direct up a thin crack. Follow this, and the broken rocks, to a belay on the left.
2) 2, 20m. Climb the short wall onto the vegetated slab and head left to the base of the slabs on the left.
3) 4, 30m. Climb the slab and then the slanting corner to a recess. Go rightwards up the diagonal arete then a short wall. Move left and right, past a bush, to a good belay ledge.
4) 4+, 30m. Climb the crack to the head-wall and traverse left to the base of the steeper section. Climb the fault-line and move right to a good flake. Pull over the roof and climb the slab to a belay. The easier finish of The Wasp is just to the left if needed!
FA. R.Edwards 1998


The first pitch was more like 30 to 35m.
Steve Mayes - 26/Nov/05

great route though like the adjacent route a little disjointed at times. I found the top pitch harder than the Wasp so watch out for the sting in the tail.
jon - 03/Apr/10

Unbalanced route, with only the top two pitches worth the effort of the scrappy lower pitches. We probably mixed and matched Wasp and Scorpion. The final pitch is pretty tough at 4+, but in a great position.
Dave Hume - 21/Oct/13

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