Vía Pany

2 Stars
Banned
Graunchy
 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< V&iacute;a Roxy < Diedro Botella  |  Same > V&iacute;a Valencianos >>


VS. The most popular route on this face by a margin. It has some shrubbery (and gulls), though the climbing higher up is worthwhile. There is a fair bit of fixed gear, so carry a light rack.
1) 4, 25m. Climb the awkward, narrow and slippery chimney in the right-hand side of the bay, then move right over a bulge to a good ledge on the right.
2) 3, 50m. Bush-bash up to the top of the buttress on the right.
3) 3, 20m. Climb the rib above, then traverse 8m left to a belay.
4) 5, 20m. Climb straight up the steep chimney to a ledge and continue to a stance on the top of the second buttress.
5) 4+, 25m. Step around the corner to the right, and climb up an easy, low-angled, broad ramp to the top of the buttress.
6) 4, 30m. Climb the slab slightly leftwards to a crack leading to the summit. Follow this in a fine position to a stance and belay about 15m up the crack system.
7) 4+, 30m. Follow the crack - awkward low down, but easing as height is gained. Where it becomes vegetated, pull out left onto the rib (bolt) and follow this, eventually moving left into another groove that leads to the cliff top and a belay on easy ground.

FA. Panyella, Salas 1955

USER COMMENTS

Very nice route. Despite a vegetated second pitch it's well worth it, especially in summer, when it is too hot to climb on south face.
Much less fixed gear than on Valencianos. Take plenty of tat for threads.
The summit trig point can be used for the last belay, which impresses the tourists. ;-)
Steff - 31/Jul/05

A good route that gets better with height, plenty of gear and fixed belays. P4 seems to be pretty solid now. An enjoyable hot day route.
Bob Dulieu - 27/Oct/05

In my opinion P1 is the hardest. It is quite hard to get out of the slippery chimney, especially when you're wearing a (small) backpack.
P4 is just a little harder than the rest of the route, I would say 4+/5. There are some wires and a bolt in this pitch. The rock is very solid now.
It took us 3h 45 mins to climb the Pany.
Otto Sluiter - 23/Oct/06

The route is now pretty well bolted, although it's worth taking a light rack. We used a few nuts, cams and slings. The belays are all bolted.
pero kalugerovich - 12/Nov/11

Pitch 2 seemed quite clear of vegetation. Nice mountaineering style route
ian stirrups - 07/Nov/13

A fun outing. P1 is the hardest. P6 is probably the second hardest and P4 is the best pitch. More or less comfortable stances all throughout.
piafuglen - 24/Feb/17

Great route that swings out on the cliff facing Calpe. I found P4 (steep crack/chimney) the hardest, followed by P6 (compact slab with a diagonal crack, some small overhangs which can be avoided with some elegant moves. P6 also seems to differ slightly from the topo; the traverse into the summit crack system seems to be after the sixth belay. 2 bolts per pitch on average (always placed right at the hardest moves) and bolted belays. P1 is possibly the worst I've ever climbed (being quite big I could only fit in sideways... should've brought some olive oil) and the end of P7 is quite scrappy and difficult to protect, everything in between was great!
mlanger - 23/Mar/17

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