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A superb and unusual route which is by far the most popular on the wall. It is actually considerably more strenuous than it looks, mainly because the cracks aren't the correct width for good jams. Start at the lower right-hand side of the wall, three metres left of a wide chimney with a large wedge of solid rock in it.
1) 5c, 25m. Climb up steep juggy rock to the base of the crack laced wall. Pull into the crack and paddle your way up it with a slight leftwards detour where it gets tricky. Continue to the blocky recess to belay. A powerful pitch that will feel 6a if at all damp.
2) 5b, 20m. Move up to a ledge on the left then climb straight up the cracks above. After 6m move left to a spike in a recess (on Rollerwall). Finish by passing the bulge above on its left.
Desperately strenuous..particularly if damp.
One reachy move on sloppy jams used to stop E3 leaders dead... E4 is probably about right
John Alcock - 07/Mar/05
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